LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



PKACTICAL SUGGESTIONS 



AMERICAN TOURIST 



VISITING EUROPE FOB THE FIRST TIME. 



JAMES H. HOOSE, A. M„ Ph. D., 

Principal of the State Normal and Training School, Cortland, N. Y. 




COOK, SON & JENKINS, 
No. 261 Broadway, New York. 









Copyright, 1878, by J. H. House 



NOXO?4IHSVAl 

SS3/HONO0 SO 
: ^HIl HHJL 



TO 



itvs- |. f. poosf, 



WHOSE STUDIES AND OBSERVATIONS ABROAD HAVE SO LARGELY 

ENTERED INTO ITS PREPARATION, 

THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED BY 

HER HUSBAND. 



TABU: OF CONTENTS. 



I. — Purposes of the Book 5 

II. — Preliminary Correspondence ... g 

III. — Companies in Traveling .... I2 

IV . — Expenses of a Tour .... 1 5 

V. — Carrying Money 20 

VI. — Books and Study for Tourists ... 22 

VII. — Passports and Letters of Introduction - - 25 

VIII. —Outfit of the Tourist .... 26 

IX. — Sea-sickness 33 

X. — Boarding the Ship 39 

XI. — Ocean Voyage 41 

XII. — Entering the Port of Destination - - 49 

XIII. — Finding a Hotel after Landing ... 52 

XIV. —European Hotels - 54 

XV. — European Cities ------ 66 

XVI. — Traveling in Cities 72 

XVII. —Railways and Railway Travel ... 78 
XVIII. — Railway Stations 94 

XIX. — Railway Luggage 99 

XX. — Coaches and Diligences - 103 

XXI. — Studying the Country 106 

XXII. — Institution of Feeing - - - - in 
XXIII.— Spirit of the Tourist 118 



PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS 



I.— Purposes of the Book. 

This little volume is not a guide book. It is 
simply what its title implies : The common- 
sense experience which tourists meet and must 
daily heed, or practical suggestions to Americans 
traveling in Europe for the first time. It is no 
indifferent task for one who has perchance never 
traveled much, even in the United States, to un- 
dertake a tour across the Atlantic. Everything 
is so new, so unknown ; the customs are, in many 
respects, so different from ours, and the anxiety 
and excitement of rapid traveling are so con- 
stant a strain upon the nervous system, that any 
suggestions which may render the tour less per- 
plexing and at the same time more profitable are 
of value. The little and apparently unim- 
portant things are carefully noted with details, 
even to occasional repetition, because they give 
the aggregate worry and labor of a tour. This 
may, indeed, be called a book of small items of 
travel which the guide books do not specify, but 



6 PURPOSES OF THE BOOK. 

which are precisely the details that tourists 
so much desire and need to know. The volume 
faces more immediately Summer than Winter 
tours. 

So many things present themselves to the 
tourist concerning which he must act, and about 
which the guide books give him no information 
nor suggestion even, that hints of ways out of 
these anxieties cannot come without a welcome, 
however humble may be their pretensions. 

The usual cost of a tour in Europe is of so 
much moment that the advantages and pleasures 
returned therefor should be of no uncertain 
value. All the assistance that can be rendered 
the tourist will be welcomed by him as worthy of 
regard. 

While Americans may feel justly and reason- 
ably satisfied with the reputation which their 
countrymen enjoy abroad for their quickness of 
perception, their perseverance, their general 
intelligence, their liberality, yet it must have im- 
pressed others, as it has the writer, that still 
more can be done by American travelers to con- 
vey to foreigners, among whom they present 
themselves, a more correct knowledge of the 
better and higher results of our American insti- 
tutions. These favorable impressions are the 
ones which materially sustain and strengthen the 
bonds of international regard and friendship, 
which every traveler should desire to cherish and 
cultivate. 

My own travels have been so limited that these 
hints are written with much diffidence, and with 
the knowledge that they cover only partially the 
experience of wider travel ; hence the attempt 
to generalize statements is rarely made. The 
matter, unless otherwise indicated, is based upon 



PURPOSES OF THE BOOK. 7 

observations made during vacation tours in 
Europe, and I am not unmindful of my own 
shortcomings in my observations, and of the fact 
that others observe as well as myself. 

If these suggestions shall aid any tourist who 
is upon his first journey over the ocean, and 
shall in any degree help to increased profit and 
pleasure in his traveling, the purposes of the 
writer will be attained. 



PRELIMINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 



II.— Preliminary Correspondence. 

One who contemplates making a tour in Eu- 
rope should enter into early correspondence with 
an agency which represents the ocean line of 
steamships by which he expects to cross the At- 
lantic. This is necessary in order to have a bet- 
ter choice of accommodations on board the ship, 
as those who apply first are first served. All the 
leading newspapers of the seaboard cities contain 
advertisements of the ocean lines of steamers 
and the rates of passage. In my own experience 
I found the most desirable way to proceed was to 
open correspondence directly with Messrs. Cook, 
Son and Jenkins, Tourists' Office, 261 Broad- 
way, New York. They are agents for all the 
steamship lines that cross the ocean ; they are in 
telegraphic communication with all the offices of 
the various ship companies ; they furnish descrip- 
tive plans of all the steamers ; they are familiar 
with all locations on ship board ; they can always 
give a choice of rooms and accommodations ; 
and they are very prompt and courteous in carry- 
ing on correspondence. They have local agencies 
scattered all over the United States. They also 
sell to travelers tickets for all parts of the world, 
and furnish estimates at short notice for almost 
any conceivable itinerary, including hotel ex- 
penses, with or without their hotel coupons, at 
the pleasure of the tourist. Their offices are lo- 
cated over the whole world. 

Regarding the ocean voyage, it is advisable, 
whenever practicable, to engage passage some 



PRELIMINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 9 

weeks, or months even, previous to the date 
fixed for sailing. Saturdays are the great days 
for sailing from New York, although many steam- 
ships leave that port on Tuesdays, Wednesdays 
and Thursdays, rarely on Fridays, Sundays and 
Mondays. Regarding the ocean passage, the 
most desirable months for a tour are May, June, 
July, August, and the first half of September, be- 
fore the approach of the autumnal equinox. It 
is said that March is the crown of the year in 
storms on the Atlantic. 

As to the ship itself, and where the desirable 
berths are located, the tourist should first secure 
plans of the steamer, which enable one to under- 
stand more readily the location of the state-rooms 
berths, saloons, and ot}her portions of the ship. 
In the ships of some of the companies the cabin 
passengers occupy the centre of the ship ; in 
other lines, the after portions. In reference to 
the selection of berths, the following suggestions 
may be offered : The ends of the ship have 
more motion from the waves than the centre 
portion — the outside rooms have a port- 
hole or round glass window which lets the 
light directly into the side of the room, and 
when the waves are not too high, may be swung 
open during the daytime for ventilation ; the 
side rooms open only into the passage ways or 
aisles for ventilation, and are dependent in the 
day time for light upon the passages and the 
small, oblong glass prisms, dead lights, which 
are set into the deck above. These inside rooms 
are very comfortable, however. The rooms are 
usually provided with a bell-cord or an electric 
signal to summon an attendant. It would be 
an improvement in most steamships if more 
ample means of ventilation were provided for the 



IO OCEAN STEAMERS SAILING FROM NEW YORK. 



cabins and saloons. When there are many pas- 
sengers on board, the state-rooms are necessarily- 
crowded, there being two or three, and sometimes 
even more, in one room. Looking to possible 
sea-sickness, a lower berth is more desifable than 
an upper one, as it is more easily entered and left, 
but for light and ventilation the upper berth, 
if under the port-hole, is preferable. 

In order to aid those who have had no experi- 
ence in this matter, there is submitted the fol- 
lowing list of lines of ocean steamers, sailing 
from New York, unless otherwise indicated, as 
published in Cook's Excursionist and Tourist 
Advertiser for January, 1878. 



Name of Line and Accom- 
modation. 


Destination. 


Single Voy- 
age. 


Return 
Tickets. 


Anchor Line — 

Aft outside berths 1 


Glasgow, 
calling at London- 
derry. 
London, 
(direct steamer.) 

Liverpool, 
calling at Queens- 
town. 
London, 
(direct steamer.) 

Liverpool, 
calling at Queens- 
town. 

Liverpool, 
calling at Queens- 
town. 

Glasgow, 
calling at Belfast. 

Liverpool, 
calling at Queens- 
town. 


($ 7 o cur. 
1 55 cur. 

{ $70 cur. 
( 55 cur. 

( $70 cur. 
( 50 cur. 

f$6o cur. 
\ 50 cur. 

f $100 gold. 
1 80 gold. 

($130 gold. 
< 100 gold. 
( 80 gold. 

( $100 gold. 

< 80 gold. 
( 60 gold. 

C$70 cur. 

< 55 cur. 
( 40 cur. 

( $100 gold. 
j 80 gold. 


$120 cur. 


Anchor Line — 

Aft outside berths ) 


$120 cur. 


National Line — 
Outside berths ) 


$120 cur. 


National Line — 








Cunard Line — 

(Except per " Russia.") 
Outside berths ) 


$180 gold. 
144 gold. 

$234 gold. 
180 gold. 
144 gold. 

$165 gold. 
135 gold. 
120 gold. 

$125 cur. 


(Per " Russia.") 
Outside berths ") 


Second cabin J 

Inman Line — 
Outside berths \ 


Aft inside berths ) 

State Line — 

Outside berths } . . ~) 






White Star Line — 

Outside berths ") 

Inside berths > 

Aft inside berths ) 


$175 gold. 
145 gold. 



OCEAN STEAMERS SAILING FROM NEW YORK. II 



Name of Line and Accom- 
modation. 



Williams & Guion Line— 

Saloon berths 

Aft outside berths 

Aft inside berths . 

North German Lloyd — 

First cabin ) 

Second cabin J 

(From Baltimore) 

First cabin 

Hamburg-Amer. Line — 

First cabin \ 

Second cabin j" 

French Line— 

First cabin \ 

Second cabin j" 

Allan Line — 

(From Quebec.) 

After berths ) 

Forward berths j" 

(From Baltimore.) 
According to location of) 

berth ] 

American Line — 

(From Philadelphia.) 
According to location of | 

berth ) 

Warren Line — Winter Rate 
i From Boston.) 
According to berth and ) 

steamer J 

Dominion Line — 

(From Philadelphia) 

Wilson Line 



Destination, 



Liverpool, 
ing at Queens- 
town. 



Bremen, 
calling at South- 
ampton. 



Hamburg, 
calling at Plym'th 
and Cherbourg. 
Havre, 
calling a t Ply- 
mouth. 
Liverpool, 
calling at London- 
derry. 



Liverpool, 
calling at Queens- 
town. 
Liverpool, 
calling at Queens- 
town. 



Liverpool. 



Southampton. 



Single Voy- 
age. 



(#75 cur. 
< 65 cur. 
I 55 cur. 

( $100 gold. 
( 60 gold. 

go gold. 

( $100 gold. 
( 60 gold. 

($100 gold. 
\ 65 gold. 



( $So gold. 
} 70 gold. 

{ $75 gold. 
( 70 gold. 



f$75to 
( 100 cur. 



$60 cur. 



45 cur. 
50 cur. 



Return 
Tickets. 



$130 cur. 
120 cur. 
100 cur. 

$185 gold. 
123 gold. 

160 gold. 

$185 g°ld- 
123 gold. 

$160 gold, 
no gold. 



$150 gold. 
125 gold. 

160 gold. 
140 gold. 



$140 to 
180 cur. 



$110 cur. 
$90 cur. 



These rates can not be depended upon for sailings from the first of May to 
the first of August, as during this time the ships are crowded, and the fares 
are increased from ten to fifteen per cent. 



12 COMPANIES IN TRAVELING. 



III.— Companies in Traveling. 

There are various ways of traveling : In a 
party under a conductor ; in a party which is 
more nominal than real, where each member vir- 
tually cares entirely for himself, yet enjoys the 
companionship of the others ; in a party which 
daily appoints some one of its own members to 
attend to the larder, to the style of living, and to 
the route taken during the day's travel [I am 
told this plan is much pursued by the German 
students when out on their vacation tours] ; and 
lastly, in company with no one except it chance 
occasionally otherwise. Each of these modes 
has its advantages and its disadvantages, which 
will further appear in discussing the first of the 
ways named. 

To travel in a personally-conducted party, as 
the phrase is generally understood, the con- 
ductor being familiar with the routes, customs, 
and the languages, has the advantages of freeing 
the tourist from the care of securing hotel ac- 
commodations and railway tickets, of studying 
out the desirable routes to be followed, of look- 
ing after luggage, engaging guides, feeing ser- 
vants, and hiring coaches. It has the additional 
advantages, which are no mean ones, of having 
the company of an interpreter in countries of 
strange tongues, which relieves tourists of a feel- 
ing of severe anxiety in case of sudden illness ; 
of losing no time in a vain search for the places 
of interest when time is limited. 

The disadvantages are : That the tourist, 



COMPANIES IN TRAVELING. 13 

being relieved from the care of himself, tends to 
feel an indifference toward the methods and man- 
ners of the business world through which he 
passes, and hence he does not come into so near 
relations with the people as he otherwise would : 
that the tourist loses some of his best opportuni- 
ties for becoming acquainted with the forms of 
business, which acquaintance gives him a more 
thorough confidence in his own ability to carry 
on successfully those pursuits which may there- 
after engage his attention ; that the feeling of 
greater indifference to what is passing is apt to 
be induced, because the tourist is only one of a 
body to the direction of which he gives no 
concern. 

Again, some of the members of a party, want- 
ing evenness of disposition and wisdom in judg- 
ment, make the rest unhappy by reason of 
moroseness, censoriousness, haughtiness, and the 
like ; as a party, valuable time is occasionally 
wasted in listening to specific directions, and in 
waiting for the appearance of tardy members, 
and when the party is very large, if too long held 
to a unity of purpose, the diversities of wants and 
tastes do not tend to profit and harmony of 
feeling. 

Also, the estimates of the expenses of the 
tourist are usually calculated on a basis of first- 
class accommodations in railway travel, as well 
as in some other items ; for any others will hardly 
satisfy the mass of tourists traveling with a con- 
ductor. These estimates materially increase the 
total cost of a tour, which may be reduced 
by purchasing second or third class railway 
tickets, and by obtaining meals at more convenient 
hours in restaurants where the tourist can select 
dishes to his liking. 



14 COMPANIES IN TRAVELING. 

Whatever the decision in the way of traveling, 
Messrs. Cook, Son and Jenkins will accommodate 
tourists in any or all of these ways — as by single 
tickets, or in companies, small or large, with or 
without a conductor. Hence a tourist can be 
satisfied according to his preference for being 
relieved of all care and anxiety in regard to the 
minutiae of the tour, or his willingness to attend 
to all such details himself. In any event, the 
company of one or two persons is very desirable, 
unless the tourist be self-reliant, in which case 
he can travel alone with comparative ease and 
comfort. 



EXPENSES OF A TOUR. 15 



IY. — Expenses of a Tour. 

Expenses are an important item. To estimate 
them within probable limits, it will be necessary 
to determine somewhat exactly the proposed 
route of travel, the class of fares, and the accom- 
modations which are desired. 

On the ocean steamers there are, in general, 
the first cabin passage with outside and inside 
state-rooms, the second cabin, the intermediate, 
and the steerage. The rates of passage for the 
first cabin vary from fifty to one hundred and 
thirty dollars in gold, according to the line of 
steamers chosen by the tourist, and the terms 
decrease for the second cabin and intermediate to 
very low figures for the steerage, the rates for the 
latter being from twenty-six to thirty dollars, cur- 
rency. Generally, the rates of ocean passage are 
higher in summer than in winter. Return tickets, 
good for a year from the date of their issue, can 
usually be purchased at much reduced rates. A 
portion of the passage money is ordinarily de- 
manded upon securing the berths, the balance to 
be paid at the time of sailing. If one desires to go 
by a sailing vessel the rates are still less, al- 
though the time required is much greater. 

The passage ticket is all that the ocean voyage 
will necessarily cost in ordinary calculations ; it 
includes berth, meals, care of room, and, in case of 
sickness, the attendance of a physician ; but on 
most steamers, except the Continental lines, wines 
are extra. All the ordinary attentions due pas- 
sengers from the servants are included in the ticket; 



l6 EXPENSES OF A TOUR. 

but if extra attentions are shown fees are ex- 
pected by the servants who render them. 

The fares for railway accommodation vary ac- 
cording to the class — the second class being 
about double the third, and the first about three 
times the third; but this estimate will be more 
fully discussed under Railway Travel. 

It should always be borne in mind that travel 
by rail consumes a certain amount of nervous 
energy by reason of the jar of the carriage, the 
excitement of meeting strangers, the anxiety of 
reaching safely the destination, the irregularity 
of taking meals and sleep. Therefore the tourist 
should aim to reduce these demands upon his 
strength to a minimum consistent with his means 
and the labors to be performed. 

It is well to note this fact : That the Old 
World, to one who has never visited it, is not 
only all new and fresh, but is so crowded with 
history, incident and scenery, by reason of its 
age, that all places therein are filled with interest; 
a tourist cannot go amiss, yet it is true that 
some places are more worthy a visit than others. 
All the places of interest are described in guide 
books, and routes of travel among them are es- 
tablished far more thoroughly in Europe than in 
America. The time tables, even of the railway 
service, are subject to but very little if any varia- 
tion, for a series of years it may be ; with the 
time tables there are usually combined the fare 
tables. These facts are introduced as aids in de- 
termining, before starting, the general route for 
the complete round trip as well as to assist in es- 
timating the total cost. 

The would-be-tourist will find it to his great 
advantage to determine his itinerary quite defi- 
nitely before leaving America. At first thought 



EXPENSES OF A TOUR. 1 7 

this may seem difficult to do, and it may appear 
undesirable because one wishes to be free to go 
here and there at will. But it must be borne in 
mind that Europe is entirely new to the untrav- 
eled American, and it is crowded full of history, 
scenery, and interest. If he undertakes to see the 
whole, he must spend years there; if he travels 
on a vacation tour his question is how to see the 
most that he can, and that which is characteristic. 
To secure this end he should lay out a general 
itinerary before leaving home, and then adhere 
to it with respectable tenacity of purpose. It is 
true in traveling as in all other kinds of business, 
that one must have a fixed purpose well adhered 
to, in order that the best results shall follow from 
the outlay of time and money. It is the usual 
experience of travelers that those who fix their 
route beforehand, and, extraordinaries excepted, 
follow it, return home with more profit and with bet- 
ter satisfaction to themselves, than those who rove 
irregularly about at the whim of inclination. Be- 
sides, if traveling on Cook's tickets, the route can 
be changed at any point, by exchanging the un- 
used portions of the tickets at their full value 
for others desired. This makes the settled itin- 
erary entirely safe if one should desire on a 
sudden to deviate from it at any point in his 
journey. Tickets are always good for a speci- 
fied time from the day of dating them. 

The detour excursions from the main roads 
can be made at pleasure. Tourists' tickets 
always specify the places at which the route can 
be broken — usually in England and Scotland at 
any station, while on the Continent only at given 
stations. 

Hotel charges will range ordinarily about as 
they do in the United States for similar accom- 



l8 EXPENSES OF A TOUR. 

modations. It is well to estimate these at a 
given sum per day for the number of days which 
the tour is expected to include. In the Highland 
districts in Scotland a safe estimate will be three 
dollars, gold, per day, and on the Continent two 
dollars, gold. These prices are the bases of 
Cook's hotel coupons. But while in ordinary 
times living expenses on the Continent are 
cheaper than in Britain, yet if the tourist is not 
cautious in regard to his hotel accommodations, 
orders, and extras — especially if he does not 
readily understand the languages — he will find 
his bill running up rapidly beyond the above 
prices ere he is aware of it. Expenses at the 
fashionable Summer resorts are heavy, par- 
ticularly in the season of patronage. 

The cost of newspapers, guide books, postage 
and stationery, and of telegraphic despatches — 
which should always be very plainly written, as 
foreigners read our writing with some difficulty 
occasionally — is not large under ordinary circum- 
stances. When visiting museums, galleries, and 
libraries, in most places except Paris, canes and 
umbrellas must be left at the entrance until one 
returns; a trifling fee is required. As a general 
statement foreign guide books and maps for tour- 
ists cost comparatively little in Europe to what 
they do after importation into the United States. 
Therefore, it will be far more economical to defer 
purchasing them until reaching Europe, and then 
purchase as circumstances shall seem to demand. 
The books and maps are on sale at the news- 
stands in the depots, on the coasting and inland 
boats, at the little book-stalls in the town, and at 
all the book-stores in the large cities. Tour- 
ists cannot go amiss in regard to finding them. 

Hence a tour to Europe can be taken at almost 



EXPENSES OF A TOUR. 19 

any cost depending upon ocean accommodations, 
upon railway rates chosen, upon the class of 
hotels patronized, and upon the time spent. A 
tourist hard pressed for funds by using economy 
could see a great deal for two hundred dollars, 
if he went upon the lowest cabin rates, or as a 
steerage passenger, third class by railway, and 
stopped at the low-rate boarding houses, so 
easily found, or at cheap-priced hotels. But it is 
wiser, unless severely pressed, to calculate upon 
an estimate of from three to five hundred dollars 
for a journey of two or three months. These 
estimates are close, and do not include extras for 
purchase of pictures and the like. These figures 
may be increased indefinitely according to the 
desires of the tourist. It adds to the pleasure 
and profit of travel many-fold to be well supplied 
with ready money. 



20 CARRYING MONEY. 



V.— Carrying Money. 

Before leaving the United States the tourist 
should convert his money into its equivalent in 
the currency of the country in which he proposes 
to remain the longest time. Yet it will be a con- 
venient and safe way to take the equivalent ex- 
clusively in English money. This can be done 
with the company owning the line of steamships 
patronized, or at a broker's office, or at some 
banking house, at which places drafts at sight, 
drawn upon correspondents in Europe, can be 
obtained ; or, when traveling upon their tickets, 
at the office of Messrs. Cook, Son and Jenkins, 
who will issue the amount in five or ten pound 
checks payable at sight at their offices, which are 
situated at important centres all over Europe, 
their chief European office being situated at Lud- 
gate Circus, Fleet street, London. English coin 
and bank-notes can be readily exchanged in the 
Continental cities for the currency of the land, 
which should be disposed of in some way before 
entering another State, lest it be uncurrent there. 

The following will assist the tourist in com- 
puting money values in a few of the leading 
countries. No account is taken of the fluctua- 
tions in gold, nor of rates of exchange, which are 
always losses to the traveler. 

In English currency, i sovereign=^i=2o shil- 
lings=24o pence=|5, U. S. A guinea=2is. 
Half a crown=a piece worth 2s. 6d. There 
are 20-shilling pieces, 2-shilling pieces, i-shil- 
ling pieces, 10-shilling pieces, 2^-shilling pieces, 



CARRYING MONEY. 21 

6-pence, 4-pence, 3-pence, i-penny, and half- 
penny pieces, sometimes farthings. The Eng- 
lish pronounce the expressions 3-pence, 2-pence, 
half-penny — thripence. tupence, hap'nny, re- 
spectively. 

In French currency, the franc=ioo centimes ; 
a sou=one 5-centime piece ; there are ten-cen- 
time pieces ; the English sovereign gold piece= 
25 francs 15 centimes, or practically 25 francs ; 
the napoleon=2o francs, or 15s. 9d. English, but 
if tourists are not guarded, the railway officials 
will allow only the value of one napoleon for one 
sovereign; observe the same precaution for half- 
napoleons; the franc = 20 cents, U. S., practically; 
5 francs = $i. In German money, 1 mark^ioo 
pfennigs; 1 English shillings 1 mark 4 pfennig s, 
practically 1 mark; there are i-pfennig, 5-pfen- 
nig, 10-pfennig, and 50-pfennig pieces; 20 shil- 
ling, English, = 20 marks 40 pfennigs. In Italy, 
the English sovereigns 27 lira; 1 lirfcioo cen- 
times = 95/£ d. In Holland, 1 guilden=ioo cents 
= 1 florin = is. 8d; i£, English, = 12 guilden 2 
cents. In Austria, 1 new florin= 100 kreutzers = 
is. 11^ d.; the ;£i="ii silver florins, or, in cur- 
rency, 12 florin 60 kreutzers. 



22 BOOKS AND STUDY FOR TOURISTS. 



VI.— Books and Study for Tourists. 

Previous to entering on the tour it is desirable 
that the would-be-traveler should become as thor- 
oughly acquainted as possible with the general 
history and present condition of the countries 
he intends to visit; with their geography, and 
their civil and political institutions; and, if any 
special line of investigation is to be pursued 
abroad, a study into its history, growth and pres- 
ent state is advisable. This kind of study is the 
more necessary because the guide books usually 
assume that the tourist already possesses a knowl- 
edge of all technical terms used in descriptions 
of architecture, of fortifications; of collections in 
cabinets, in" museums, in galleries of paintings 
and sculpture ; in curiosities of antiquity, of 
heraldry, of libraries, and the like. Such study 
is recommended in preference to what may be 
called the study of each particular locality as de- 
scribed in the guide books, which it is more pro- 
fitable to study carefully when on the grounds 
and surrounded by the scenes which the books 
describe. It is desirable to read before starting 
what others have written of the places which are 
in mind to visit, to hear what is said of them by 
travelers, and to glean whatever knowledge is pos- 
sible. 

Of American publications, Harper's Guide 
Book, and Appleton's are valuable. Messrs. 
Cook, Son and Jenkins publish guide books and 
railway time-tables that are of worth. Books of 
travel, which will be profitable to consult, are 



BOOKS AND STUDY FOR TOURISTS. 23 

issued from time to time for daily use of the 
tourist. When once over the ocean, the following 
books are almost indispensable — some one or 
more of them : Black's Guide Book to Scotland; 
Black's Picturesque Tourist of England; Black's 
London; Black's Ireland, and still others by this 
publisher ; Murray's Guide Books and Railway 
Tables; Baedeker's Guide Books; Bradshaw's 
Continental Railway Guide, which is both a rail- 
way guide and a guide book; Bradshaw's Rail- 
way Guide for Great Britain; all these books are 
accompanied with excellent maps, and some one 
of them is a necessary aid to the tourist. When 
a number of tourists are traveling together, it 
is an excellent plan for one of them to pur- 
chase one author, another one to buy another au- 
thor, and so on — then they can exchange with 
each other. Hardly any two authors give exactly 
the same description of any one place or object. 
It is well to be on the alert for occasional errors 
of statements, although the established guide 
books are mainly correct. 

In addition to the above mentioned books, 
most of the cities and points of interest are writ- 
ten up in small guide books which will be found 
upon arrival at those places. Abel Hey wood's 
penny guides with maps are especially valuable 
for places in England and Wales. Caution should 
be strictly taken that these local ones be genuine 
and complete, for there are many, which are unre- 
liable, hawked about places of importance. It is 
better to purchase of the officials in attendance 
at these places, whenever possible. Good pocket- 
maps of the various countries can be readily 
found at any of the cities of note. They are on 
paper, and on cloth, and while the latter cost the 



24 BOOKS AND STUDY FOR TOURISTS. 

more at first, they are the more durable and valu- 
able in the end. 

If books and maps gradually accumulate upon 
the hands of the tourist, he can mail them to his 
home in the United States. The postage is one 
penny per two ounces from Great Britain, and 
packages weighing two pounds and under can be 
mailed. Or these books can be forwarded to the 
office of the steamship at the port of departure 
for home, or they can be left at any convenient 
place to be called for upon returning homeward. 

Another matter of importance is that of lan- 
guage. An acquaintance with French and Ger- 
man, even though slight, will be a great gain. 
" To know the language is to have a double 
purse." The French suffices for Belgium, the 
Rhine District, Switzerland and Northern Italy. 
The Italian for Southern Italy is necessary. It 
will be an advantage to carry a small pocket-edi- 
tion of some English-French, English-German, 
or English-Italian Dictionary, or according to the 
necessities in the case. The German assists one 
through Northern Switzerland. In all the leading 
Continental Hotels servants are employed who 
speak the English, as is said elsewhere in this 
volume.* 

*Note. — At the risk of digressing, I wish to note for travelers in America 
that Osgood's American Guide Books, comprising " New England," " The 
Middle States," "The Maritime Provinces," and "The White Moun- 
tains," are very excellent books. The Taintor Brothers publish some 
small guide books. Cook's tourist books, charts and maps relating to the 
United States, as far as they go, are good. Some other books occasionally 
appear which aid in this matter of information regarding places of interest 
in the States. 



PASSPORTS AND LETTERS OF INTRODUCTION 



TIL— Passports and Letters of Introduction. 

Passports are not now required in most of the 
European countries, as in Great Britain, France, 
Holland, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Italy. 
Yet if one were going alone, a stranger, a pass- 
port might save him from some vexatious delays. 
Passports can be obtained on application at the 
State Department at Washington, and upon ap- 
plication and identification at the American Le- 
gations abroad. It is said that the presentation 
of a passport upon some occasions, particularly 
upon the Continent, will gain attentions and es- 
pecial favors from officials that otherwise would 
be more difficult to secure, and that "a passport is 
the traveler's best protection against the igno- 
rance or caprice of local officials, who have it in 
their power to make themselves disagreeable 
when they choose." 

Letters of introduction to foreign public offi- 
cers, or to our American representatives abroad, 
are valuable. They should be from public men 
of prominence. Letters of introduction to pri- 
vate gentlemen in Europe will be of service, and 
when used they should be delivered in person to 
the one to whom they are addressed. I would 
suggest that unless the traveler is a professional 
gentleman, or engaged in some special investiga- 
tion, he needs but few letters of introduction, 
either special or general, to carry about with him. 
The advantage of having official papers of some 
kind is, that' in cases of necessity he could com- 
mand by means of them an attention towards 
himself that he would miss were the credentials 
wanting. 



26 OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 



YIII.— Outfit of the Tourist. 

To begin with, a moderate amount of baggage, 
or luggage as it is called in Europe, should be 
taken, rather than much. However, some writers 
recommend the contrary. Washing is so cheap, 
and at the hotels is done upon short notice, so 
quickly, in one night even, that one can keep 
himself presentable at all times with a small num- 
ber of changes. Our convenient paper collars 
and cuffs cannot be found abroad with any degree 
of certainty — hardly anywhere could I find them. 

To travel with luggage is a much more per- 
plexing matter in Europe than in America, owing 
to the absence of a convenient system of check- 
ing. It is costly, too, as the luggage must be 
handled by a porter at every change, if it be too 
heavy for the tourist to do it himself. It is 
expensive from another standpoint, — an extra 
amount of baggage is always subject to special 
rates of charge for transportation. The follow- 
ing will explain this, and will aid those who de- 
sire to have some idea of the charge for excess 
luggage : In England, about ioo lbs. of luggage 
are allowed free transportation; in Germany, 50 
lbs.; in Austria and Russia, 55 lbs.; in France, 
Spain and Sweden, 66 lbs. One-fourth the third 
class maximum fare is charged in Austria for 60 
lbs. of excess luggage; in Bavaria, for 50 lbs.; in 
France for 62 lbs.; in Switzerland for 52 lbs.; in 
Wiirtemburg for 40 lbs. In Belgium and Italy 
the charges for luggage are very high; no free al- 
lowance is made, and the extra charges on heavy 



OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 27 

luggage sometimes exceed the fare of the tourist 
who travels with it. 

For the ocean passage the tourist must provide 
himself against high winds, steady and strong 
winds, cold and balmy winds, sunshine that will 
burn the face, perhaps, rain and sleet if the year 
be so timed, and stormy clouds. Hence his cloth- 
ing should be warm, as the ocean is cool even in 
summer time, the temperature grows very per- 
ceptibly colder from New York out, after passing 
the Gulf Stream. Returning, the reverse is true. 
The clothing should be ample to guard against 
chills, for colds, and severe ones, can be contracted 
on the ocean, notwithstanding the often-repeated 
assertion that colds cannot be incurred on salt 
water. 

Outside wraps, shawls, overcoats, caps, hoods, 
worsted leggins and rugs, are so necessary to pro- 
tection from the severe weather that the comfort 
they bring more than compensates for the trou- 
ble of encumbering one's self with them. Upon 
reaching port these extra goods can be left until 
the tourist returns, either at the office of the 
steamship company or at some hotel in the city 
where landed. They will be entirely safe in 
either case. It is well to have some suitable and 
cheap box-trunk for holding these clothes ; yet 
they can be simply wrapped together and bound 
with a strap. Before being thus stored away 
they should be duly aired that they may be pro- 
perly dried from the moisture of the sea air. 

As Scotland and England are subject to so 
much of rain-fall it is a desirable thing for a tour- 
ist to have with him a thin, light, rubber over- 
coat and leggins. The light, gossamer rubber 
cloaks for ladies are very valuable garments. The 
only safe way to travel in these countries is to go 



25 OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 

prepared for rain at any time, either with or with- 
out warning. The English have this saying to 
tourists in their own country : " If the sun 
shines take your umbrellas, and if it rains do as 
you please." It is said that gentlemen can buy 
their rubber goods generally more reasonably 
over the water than here, but the ladies' cloaks 
should be purchased before starting as they can- 
not be readily found there. These rubber goods 
are occasionally very convenient while on the 
ocean, as in the case of a rainy time. 

Tourists possessing the rubber goods really 
need no umbrellas, yet they are, especially for la- 
dies, a convenient article. The best umbrella 
for the traveler is the silk one, of a size which 
fits it for protection against both rain and sun- 
shine. Not being wanted on shipboard they are 
best purchased in Europe when needed. 

Tourists cannot be too well bred in the matter 
of dressing, either while on shipboard or on land. 
While neatness and taste are always in order, it 
certainly looks very vulgar and weak to display 
fine goods out of time. I have seen costly dress- 
es thus exhibited on the ship, and soon ruined by 
coming in contact with some drippings or washes 
from the machinery. It is said that the sea air is 
harmful to some of the finer goods, as light col- 
ored silks. It is customary, perhaps, on board 
some ships, for a few of the passengers to appear 
in full dress at the dinner, or table d' hote. This, 
however, is a fashion which no one, under all the 
circumstances of an ocean voyage, need be bound 
to follow, whether the tourist be a lady or gen- 
tleman. Plain, substantial, well-fitting and ap- 
pearing, and comfortable clothing is all that need 
appear on the voyage. This is also all that is de- 
manded on the land journeys, unless the tourist 



OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 29 

attends receptions, formal dinners and the like, 
when the customs of the occasion should be 
heeded. 

A most valuable and necessary article to pos- 
sess is a good small field, or large opera-glass — 
one with strong powers of definition, and of long 
range of sight. It should have a strap attached 
by which it can be carried over the shoulder. A 
pocket-compass is almost invaluable — any cheap 
one, so that it be tolerably accurate in its work- 
ings. To be able to determine readily the points 
of the compass is a great aid to a correct under- 
standing of the situation when in any given 
locality. Tourists need shoes or boots that are 
neither new nor old, but entirely " broken in," 
so that walking can be done with ease all day 
upon the stone pavements, if need be, and as is 
so often the necessity in the cities. Hardly a 
worse thing can befall a traveler than to be com- 
pelled to " break " a pair of new boots while out 
sight-seeing. 

For the land journeys, to guard against the 
chilliness of the evenings and the mornings, there 
should be worn all the while clothing good for 
warmth, including light flannel underwear, and 
also an extra cape, shawl, or light overcoat should 
be provided. 

In some of the Continental cities travelers will 
profit by observing that the resident inhabitants 
seek the shady side of the streets, of walls, 
and the like, instead of walking along under 
the full blaze of the hot sun. 

For the daily traveling, the tourist should have 
by him no luggage except what he can carry 
readily in his hand, if he does not care to be 
annoyed and fretted by anxiety for it, as he is 
going from point to point rapidly, by all sorts of 



30 , OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 

conveyances and under all grades of sky. One 
of the very handiest of articles for carrying hand 
luggage is a brown linen sack, cylindrical in 
shape, fifteen or twenty inches long, closed at 
the ends, opening the whole length, being fur- 
nished with buttons and button-holes for closing 
it, and is carried by means of a shawl strap 
having a handle. This is a kind of omnibus 
arrangement, that will hold less or more, and 
almost anything. It is better than a sachel or 
valise, ordinarily, as it is small if only a little be 
in it, and it readily expands upon demand. 

Another suggestion is ventured, although it 
does not appear gallant — it is that in a mixed 
company of ladies and gentlemen upon a tour, 
the ladies do their share in caring for the hand 
luggage. This is quite essential in many of the 
excursions where there is a crowd to jostle and 
perplex the tourist, as so often happens in Europe, 
and no time can be lost to attend to ladies, who 
should assist rather than hinder expedition upon 
such occasions. 

It happens not unfrequently in summer time 
that, during the ocean voyage, the skin of the 
face literally peels off, leaving the face tender to 
the touch, the winds, and the rays of the sun, and 
that sometimes while traveling on the land, espe- 
cially in the mountain regions, the sun and the 
winds burn the face. Lotions are needed upon 
these occasions. The following will be found 
valuable both as a preventive and' as a cure: 
Glycerine and camphorated ice. Spectacles of 
common smoked glass will be found serviceable to 
protect the eyes on the sea as well as on the land. 

Should the tourist meet a mosquito that should 
honor him with its bill, he can correct the irritant 
by bathing the mutilated parts with milk and vin- 



OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. . 3 1 

egar ; the milk to soothe the man and the vinegar 
to ostracise the beast ! Or else by dissolving 
carbonate of soda in a little water, warming it 
over a candle, and applying it to the part that 
was wounded by the mosquito. As to the fleas 
of Southern Europe, tourists will find them spry 
and thirsty — dreadfully blood-thirsty. 

It may be of use to have a small bottle of some 
medicine which will serve in case of sudden 
attacks of those diseases which are peculiar to 
summer, and which are occasioned by changes 
of diet, climatic influences, and the like. A small 
pocket-flask of good brandy, called cognac on 
the Continent, is a valuable article to carry along 
as a provision against suffering from these 
attacks, but it must be of the best quality, else it 
will only aggravate the disease. The following 
recipe is also one of the very best, and it can be 
easily prepared by any druggist : Tinct. opii, 
capsici, rhei co., menth pip., campho. Mix 
the above in equal parts ; dose, ten to twenty 
drops in three or four teaspoonfuls of water. In 
plain terms, take equal parts of tincture of 
opium, red pepper, rhubarb, peppermint, and 
camphor, and mix them for use. 

There is another remedy recommended on the 
Continent: "A simple remedy for cholera and 
dysentery, used in Syria by the natives, is pow- 
dered charcoal (made of burnt bread) ; a tea- 
spoonful of which, in a cup of sugarless coffee, 
is a good daily dose." 

It is almost needless to caution the tourist 
about his diet that it be plain, nourishing, plenti- 
ful, palatable ; that he eat oftener rather than 
overmuch at a time ; and that he regard the 
amount of water he drinks. 

It should be noted that drugs are not always of 



32 OUTFIT OF THE TOURIST. 

equal degrees of strength. Hence one will be 
apt to be at a loss regarding the quantity to be 
taken as a dose, unless he purchases his medicines 
before leaving home where he is familiar with 
their strength. 



SEA-SICKNESS. $$ 



IX.— Sea-sickness. 

An ocean voyage without sea-sickness is a 
source of pleasure, rest, and profit. One who has 
had no experience on the ocean cannot predict 
how he will be affected by the sea ; therefore, it 
is wise, whilst determining not to be sea-sick, to 
provide for possible emergencies. Sea-sickness 
is a nervous affection. At the first there is a 
gathering of heated sensations, uncomfortable 
and perceptible, in the ganglia of the sym- 
pathetic system of nerves, especially in the 
centres in the upper portion of the abdomen, 
where one " feels so " when falling or " teeter- 
ing ;" the sensations extend rapidly upward to the 
head, there causing dizziness, heat, and pain ; the 
salivary glands become suddenly very active ; 
then the excitement centres in the stomach caus- 
ing nausea, which is the direct effect of brain dis- 
turbance. 

The headache is sometimes very distressing, 
and when accompanied with the nausea, is usu- 
ally attended with profuse perspiration. The 
inclination of the patient is to give up efforts at 
exercise, to lie still and let the ship go. The un- 
ventilated condition of most ships, unless in 
pleasant weather when the port-holes can be 
opened, and the smells — they would be odors on 
land — from the table, however agreeable at other 
times, are apt to aggravate sea-sickness. The 
trembling or vibratory motion of some steamers, 
which is caused by the resistance that the ocean 
and the inertia of the vessel offer against the pro- 



34 



SEA-SICKNESS. 



pelling power of the machinery, together with 
the motion produced by the waves, either to 
make the ship roll, or to roll and pitch as when 
upon a " chopped " or " cross " sea, these 
motions are well calculated to promote sea-sick- 
ness, because they keep up a tendency to concus- 
sion of the brain with the skull, or an unusual 
pressure upon various portions thereof. The 
action of the sea air, united with the motion of the 
ship, may cause torpidity of the liver. This will 
induce severe costiveness, which, in time, gives 
additional energy to the heated state of the head 
and to the disquieting tendency to dizziness. 
The motions of the ship may also tend to dis- 
arrange the system generally by slightly affecting 
the circulation of the blood. However it may 
be in detail, it is true that an ocean voyage may, 
soon after it is begun, very suddenly and per- 
ceptibly disarrange the functions of the various 
portions of the human system. 

First of all, then, as to the so-called " cures for 
sea-sickness:" I think I am quite safe in saying 
that the only certain and permanent cure for man 
or beast — I have seen horses sea-sick — is to land 
and stay landed. But one may recover very 
readily from its attacks and gradually become 
free from any further trouble. Many are never 
subject to it, others are slightly under its discom- 
fort. The most that can be safely said, probably, 
is that sea-sickness frequently is temporarily re- 
lieved, and so far controlled by cautious treat- 
ment that the voyage will not be without some 
ease and interest. But the often-repeated words 
" You will be all the better afterwards be- 
cause you are sick on the sea," is to me, much 
like the maxim, " Don't pay too dear for the whis- 
tle." The voyage ordinarily being only from 



SEA-SICKNESS. 35 

ten to twelve or fourteen days in length, accord- 
ing to the steamer's port of destination, one can 
endure a little unpleasantness during that time 
for the sake of the sights of the Old World that 
await the landing. 

Concerning the treatment of sea-sickness, I can- 
not pretend to discuss the matter professionally, 
I only throw out such hints as experience and ob- 
servation have brought before me. If the tourist 
should become seriously ill he should call to his 
aid the physician who is always on board. But 
the passenger can do much to care for himself, if 
he be judicious and patient. It is reported upon 
good authority that the following is taught by 
some medical colleges : That the tourist, on the 
evening before sailing, should take, upon going 
to bed, a ten-grained blue pill, and in the morn- 
ing before eating, a good-sized dose of seidlitz 
powders. He should eat a hearty meal, so as to 
go on board with a full stomach. Mr. Thomas 
K. Knox gives the following as the result of his 
experience : " The night before you are to sail, 
take a blue pill — ten grains — just before going to 
bed, and when you get up in the morning, take, 
the first thing, a dose of citrate of magnesia. 
Then eat your breakfast and go on board, and I 
will wager four to one that you will not be sea- 
sick a moment, though the water may be 
as rough as an Arkansas traveler's manners. 
I have rigidly followed it every time I have gone 
to sea since I received it. It has saved me from 
sea-sickness, which I at my first voyages had to 
despair." 

The physician of the ship on our return voy- 
age said to me that passengers make a mistake 
in not taking a dose of some purgative medicine 
the first day they start out on the ocean. The 



^,6 SEA-SICKNESS. 

captain of the steamer which carried us over said, 
within my hearing, that passengers eat too much 
for their health, because there is so sudden a 
change of exercise and mode of life compared to 
that on land. This captain recommended the 
occasional drinking of sea-water when one is sea- 
sick, and it was suggested to me that if I would 
take part of a glass before breakfast I would 
escape the sickness. I took it for a few mornings 
but without advantage, although other cases were 
cited where benefits followed its use. A very 
general saying is that a passenger must never 
give up to sea-sickness, but must brave it down by 
sheer force of will. Here I would say that when- 
ever it requires so much of a strain upon the nerv- 
ous powers of the patient that it exhausts him 
to do this, then he had better keep as quiet as pos- 
sible in order to conserve his strength. One of 
the very best of states for the semi-invalid is to 
keep cheerful, hopeful and patient. It is far bet- 
ter to be around, and upon deck, whenever the 
weather will permit, than to remain below in the 
berth. Dr. John Chapman's rubber ice-bag is a 
good article to have in case of severe sea-sickness. 
Yet it is a very powerful remedy and should be 
used with caution, lest too much ice be applied to 
the spine and permanent harm come therefrom. 
The effect of the use of it is to tone up gradually 
the whole nervous system so that one feels 
stronger. One application of the bag will leave 
its effects from two to three hours. The bag is 
somewhat expensive, costing from four to five dol- 
lars in London. The Philadelphia agents are J. 
Wardon Wilson, Jr., and Wyeth Bro's. It is well 
to be provided with smelling salts and camphor 
(liquid). Chloroform is sometimes recommended 
— from two to five drops on a piece of sugar, 



SEA-SICKNESS. 37 

taken when sick. I have but little faith in it, be- 
sides it is a dangerous medicine, unless adminis- 
tered by a physician. One gentlemen on the 
ship had entire confidence in this recipe of chloro- 
form as a sure cure, and yet he was the one man 
who was severely seasick nearly all the way over; 
he never came to his " sea leg," while on the 
voyage." 

Another preventive is said to be a compress, or 
strap with a pad attached, bound about the body, 
the pad being placed over the pit of the stomach 
so as to crowd the bile downwards, thus prevent- 
ing costiveness. My only knowledge of this is, 
that it was worn at times by a gentleman, and 
still he was not wholly free from sea-sickness; how- 
ever, the compress may have helped him. In any 
event it is an innocent experiment. Lemons are 
good; some of the juice taken before breakfast 
will assist to relieve the biliousness which is so 
prevalent during a voyage. Brandy is a bad 
stimulant because of its astringent qualities. 
Ginger ale is often good for warming the stom- 
ach and thus exciting a healthy action of the 
digestive organs. Champagne, claret, and port- 
wine, cooled with ice, taken at meal time, are 
sometimes serviceable to counteract sea-sickness. 
The further remark is ventured that too much in 
the way of medicine is apt to be taken rather 
than too little. 

It is desirable that the passenger should have a 
supply of some active anti-bilious pills or seidlitz 
powders to guard against biliousness and costive- 
ness. Ordinarily it seems to require, on the sea, 
a much larger portion of these medicines for an 
effective dose than when on land. The passenger 
should be at very great pains to keep himself well 
bathed by a hand bath every morning, especially 



38 SEA-SICKNESS. 

if he suffers from sea-sickness, as the perspiration 
attending this sickness is usually very profuse, as 
well as disagreeable in odor. Sea-water baths 
can be had on most ships. 

While on deck, if unable to sit upright, or to 
stand or walk, it will be found advantageous to 
lie flat down upon the back, being careful to place 
the head towards the bow of the boat. This is a 
wise precaution as to position at any time when 
seasick. Too much mental exertion aggravates 
sea-sickness, and sometimes is the immediate occa- 
sion of it. I do not recommend a timid, fearful 
spirit, but a wise judgment in relation to exer- 
cise. It will be a disadvantage to overtax one's 
strength at any time. 

While it is not necessary to carry a camp chair, 
there being usually a plentiful supply on the ship, 
yet an easy chair that will fold up, called a steam- 
boat chair, is a great luxury for a person to have 
on deck when he is disturbed by illness. 

There is this comfort attending sea-sickness — 
one is not made to feel that he is not " welcome 
at home " because he is sick; for everybody expects 
everybody else to be sick, and hence there is no 
surprise manifested whether one is sick or well — 
it is all the same. 



BOARDING THE SHIP. 39 



X. — Boarding* the Ship. 

Suppose the tifne arrived for the ship to start : 
Try to reach New York, if that be the port of 
sailing, the previous day ; the baggage can be 
sent by some city express to the docks of the 
steamship company at which place the tourist 
will find it. All luggage that can be carried in 
his hand he will take to his hotel, in order to 
insure its safety. After breakfast on the morning 
of sailing, or at any corresponding time, be at the 
dock in ample season to see that the baggage is 
all right. The official in waiting will ask, " Will 
this baggage be wanted on shipboard ?" If the 
tourist have clothes or articles that he wishes to 
use on the ship, he will say, "Wanted." The 
official will then paste a label, " Wanted," on the 
trunk. This means that the owner will find this 
baggage, with that of others, upon deck when the 
ship starts, and it will not be put down into the hold 
until after he has taken out what he desires. If 
the trunk is small and there is space for it in his 
state-room he can have it placed there to remain 
during the voyage. It is a wise precaution that 
the tourist should assure himself b) r personal 
inspection that his baggage is surely labeled and 
taken on board. In some cases this is necessary, 
as : "Observe — 'The Owners of the London and 
New York Steamers, and London and St. Katha- 
rine Dock Company do not hold themselves re- 
sponsible for Baggage, nor do they allow any 
Baggage to be shipped unless the Passenger be 
present.' The Passengers must therefore attend 



40 BOARDING THE SHIP. 

on Saturday the inst., at two o'clock, to see 

their Baggage put on board." This work of put- 
ting on board is done by the company, the pas- 
senger simply observing that there is no mistake 
about it. In some instances it happens that the 
company orders all heavy baggage to be delivered 
at the quay or docks the day before sailing, in 
order to expedite the business of casting off the 
ship. Be on the lookout for this. Each cabin 
passenger is allowed about twenty cubic feet of 
space for his baggage, free from charges. Usu- 
ally, at the time of going on board for sailing, 
the officials distribute a printed list of the pas- 
sengers who go out in that ship. In due time the 
gang-boards are thrown off, the gates in the bul- 
warks are closed, the hawsers are hauled in, the 
captain and the pilot take their places upon the 
bridge, the first officer at the bow, the second at 
the stern, the third amid-ships, and the fourth on 
the quarter-deck. The captain signals the engin- 
eer below, the immense engines instinctively start, 
the water shows agitation at the stern of the ship, 
the dock recedes, the ship is off for its three thou- 
sand nautical miles of ocean passage. In an hour 
or two the pilot leaves the ship, being taken by a 
row-boat to the pilot vessel; if desired, letters 
may be sent ashore by him. The captain now is 
alone in charge of the steamer, and continues 
thus until he shares his command with the pilot 
upon entering the port across the Atlantic. If 
all goes well the propeller of the ship will revolve 
uniformly and without cessation during all of 
these many miles over the sea. 



OCEAN VOYAGE. 4 1 



XI. — Ocean Voyage. 

The tourist being now outward bound, there 
will be a general looking after matters in the 
state-rooms. It is also usual to arrange early for 
the meal that is to follow first after starting. It 
will be important to a passenger, if he be under 
sea-sickness, to have a seat at the end of some 
table, called a corner seat, or at some place 
which he can readily and suddenly leave, in case 
it should seem best at any time. Revolving 
chairs are being introduced into the dining- 
saloons of some of the newer steamships, and 
they are a great gain to the comfort of the pas- 
sengers. It will be necessary for the passenger to 
be promptly on the alert for his seat, else the 
old voyagers will have control of all the choice 
seats before he is aware of it. Sometimes it is 
customary for a person to place his card on the 
table at the seat which he desires, but this must be 
watched if there be many passengers, lest some one 
remove it. Frequently one can engage the chief 
steward on the day before sailing to reserve a 
given seat for him ; this is a good way, if it be 
practicable to go on board that day. If this be 
done it will be essential that the steward be 
remembered in a fee. In case of anything being 
wrong about the seating, the tourist applies to 
the chief steward as final umpire. When the 
bell rings for the meal, be prompt at the table 
and at the seat selected, which is to be retained 
during the voyage, unless changed by approval of 
the steward. 



42 OCEAN VOYAGE. 

The meals are served to cabin passengers 
at about the following hours, in summer 
time : Breakfast at 8 A. M., or in some cases 
from 7:30 A. M. to 9:30 A. M.; lunch at 12 
M.; dinner, the regular table d'hote and the prin- 
cipal meal of the day, at 4 P. M.; tea at 7 P. M.; 
supper from 8:30 P. M. to 10 P. M., upon order. 
Besides these meals, and according to the line of 
steamers, oatmeal porridge or coffee is usually 
served in the morning at 6:30 o'clock or at 7 
o'clock. This porridge can be had at the dining- 
saloon, or it will be brought to one's state-room 
by the bedroom steward or by the stewardess, as 
the case may be, provided such an arrangement 
has been made by the passenger. For these 
extra services a fee will be expected at the 
end of the voyage. If you discover that you will 
probably be seasick, arrange at once with the 
bedroom steward or with the stewardess to care 
for you in all that you may want, to bring your 
meals to you in your room, or to the deck, 
wherever you may be, and to serve you as you 
may desire. At the end of the voyage pay 
according to the amount of extra service ren- 
dered you, from a sovereign or five dollars, 
downwards. The days will go steadily by, and, if 
the tourist is not sick, a voyage across the 
Atlantic in summer time is a real pleasure. The 
tourist can go out among the sailors in the fore- 
castle, when probably some one of them will 
stoop down and suddenly draw a chalk mark on 
his shoe. This calls for a treat from the passen- 
ger. He is expected to follow the custom of the 
sea, so he gives the sailor who marked him a 
piece of money, anywhere from twenty-five cents 
to a dollar, as he pleases. After this he has the 
run of the deck scot-free, all the sailors now 



OCEAN VOYAGE. 43 

knowing him as having earned his liberty. If 
the passenger go down into the furnace regions, 
among the blackened and sweltering firemen 
who shovel daily into the maws of Hades fifty, 
sixty, eighty, one hundred tons of coal, he will be 
chalked again. He will pay as before with like 
subsequent freedom. 

The sailors are busy people, always at work 
when on their relays ; they paint and repair the 
ship's rigging, they scrape the masts, and they 
scrub the deck at early dawn to the evident dis- 
gust of the drowsy sleepers below. 

The tourist will see signs placarded here and 
there by which he will be instructed in relation to 
certain limitations of talking with the officers 
and men while on duty. Lights are put out at 
night from 10:30 to 11:30 o'clock, according to 
the regulations of the company. Should lights 
be absolutely needed in the state-room after the 
hours for extinguishing them, inquiries in regard 
to the matter should be made of the captain of 
the ship. The passage tickets are collected by the 
purser a few days after starting out from port. 
Should the tourist need some pocket-change in 
the denomination of the money of the country in 
which he is to land, he can obtain it of the pur- 
ser or of the chief steward, one of whom has 
charge of the bar. 

The passenger should early attend to the bells 
which mark the watches, and learn to note the 
time indicated by them. One stroke is given at 
the end of each half hour — the watch is four 
hours long, except at 6 P. M., called the " dog- 
watch," when there is a break. In detail the case 
is thus : The watch begins at 12 M., which is 
past, suppose, then at 12:30 P. M., one bell is 
struck ; at 1 P. M., two bells ; 1:30 P. M., three 



44 OCEAN VOYAGE. 

bells ; at 2 P. M., four bells; at 2:30 P. M., five 
bells ; at 3 P. M., six bells ; at 3:30 P. M., seven 
bells ; at 4 P. M., eight bells, which is the highest 
ever struck on the watch ; at 4:30 P. M., one bell; 
at 5 P. M., two bells ; at 5:30 P. M., three bells ; 
at 6 P. M., four bells, the beginning of the "dog- 
watch"; at 6:30 P. M., being in the dog-watch, one 
bell only; at 7 P. M., two bells; at 7:30 P. M., 
three bells ; at 8 P. M., eight bells again. Then 
the bells are struck regularly up to eight strokes 
until the next evening at 6 o'clock. The regular 
watches are at 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock. 
The dog-watch breaks up the time for the relays 
so that the same company of men and officers do 
not have to serve at the same hours every night. 
Usually there are religious services on the Sab- 
bath, and sometimes every evening, especially if 
there are clergymen on board. Some of the cap- 
tains read the Sabbath services ; some say grace 
at the table when they are present at the begin- 
ning of the meals. On Sundays or on other days, 
collections are taken among the passengers for the 
support of various benevolent institutions con- 
nected in some manner with the sea-service. May 
I be pardoned a word to the clergymen who may 
preach on shipboard ? It is this : It does not 
seem wise or necessary to preach about the dan- 
gers of the ocean when upon it — to magnify the 
perils of the sea, in order to be effective. This 
seems hardly judicious. At a prayer meeting in 
the saloon, I heard a gentleman say that there 
was only a thin board between us and eternity — 
the waves were washing loudly against the sides 
of the ship while he was talking. The bedroom 
steward who was present exclaimed quickly, 
" Thank God, it is a thick plank." He uttered the 
sentiment that did us all the most good then. 



OCEAN VOYAGE. 45 

One night in a dense fog, a large sailing vessel 
collided with our steamship ; by a good Provi- 
dence we just escaped the wrecking of our ship, 
the passengers were in a quiet state, but very sol- 
emn. The minister on the following Sabbath only 
just alluded to the dangers of the ocean, and 
some of the passengers were fairly driven into a 
fright at the words. This is an unnecessary ago- 
nizing of the feelings. Clergymen are to be hon- 
ored, but sometimes a little wisdom of the com- 
mon world is not out of place. 

As to occupations and amusements there will 
probably be plenty of them to pass away the 
time very pleasantly. Should the passenger be 
free from sea-sickness, and so desire, he may 
read, but he is not recommended to do so on 
the first voyage ; he will find it more profitable 
to study the ship and the parts of it, as the quar- 
ter-deck, the forecastle, the companion ways, the 
saloon, the gunwale, the masts, the sails, the bin- 
nacle, the machinery for steering, the mode of 
throwing out the ashes from the furnaces, the 
wheel-house, the shrouds, the various decks, the 
hold, the construction of the life-boats, what is 
the meaning of the name which appears so often 
upon the small boats in addition to that 
of the name of the ship, the propeller, 
the manner of hoisting the sails, and last 
but not least, what the " donkey-engine " is, 
keeping clear of the "donkey" in it; the 
sailors, the other passengers, the sea, the sky, 
the whole little and great world then in view. 
The games and diversions are : Shuffle-board, 
Neptune races, ordinary races, singing, flirting 
and exchanging autograph albums, dancing, 
smoking, cards, pools on the daily rate of the 
running of the ship, wines, suppers, promenad- 



46 OCEAN VOYAGE. 

ing, conundrums, puns, stories of adventure 
according to fancy, concerts, literary exercises, 
" Mrs. Jarley's Wax- Works," personal reminis- 
cences. It is usually the case that passengers 
are more sociable and homogeneous when going 
over to Europe than when returning to America ; 
this is remarked by many. On the return the 
passengers are more apt to break up into groups, 
which are exclusive centres unto themselves. 
Tourists should be prepared to take a part in 
those sociable entertainments which are wisely 
calculated to enhance the general happiness, 
welfare, and homelike feeling of the company. 
At the risk of being called dogmatic, I wish to 
say candidly to persons who are out upon the 
ocean for the first time, that they may safely 
assume that the officers of the ship understand 
their business without any suggestions. This re- 
mark is ventured because all passengers are not 
equally credulous in the ability of the officers. I 
knew one gentleman who, on hearing some un- 
usual noise of the machinery, hastened to tell the 
engineer of it, with advice as to how it could be 
stopped! Another passenger saw a ship over the 
bow of the boat not far away, and thought it best 
to start off rapidly to tell the captain of it in 
order to prevent a collision! While the officers 
and seamen are generally very courteous and 
solicitous for the comfort of the passengers, it 
should never be forgotten that they should not 
be annoyed by needless questions and perplexing 
complaints. If the officers are under obligations 
to the passengers, they are equally entitled to a 
reciprocal attention. Executive officers must be 
habitually thoughtful, and this usually makes 
them reticent when on duty. 

One other point I would make to tourists : 



OCEAN VOYAGE. 47 

That a sea-voyage is no time for displaying spe- 
cial spheres or crotchets, nor for uttering hypo- 
chondriac fears, nor for moaning with constant 
sighs over the imaginable dangers that are in the 
way, nor for making one's self and all the rest 
miserable by reason of constant dissatisfaction and 
fault-finding. 

Among the items of interest to a tourist on 
his first voyage are these : The meeting of other 
ships and signaling them ; seeing icebergs occa- 
sionally, and whales, sharks, dolphins, porpoises, 
sea-birds on tireless wing ever and anon riding 
the waves ; the petrels and sea-gulls which 
often show great perseverance in following the 
ship far out to sea in order to find any stray 
crumbs of food which may chance to be cast out 
upon the water. It is remarked by some that 
sea-gulls never show their blind faith and lack of 
wit so fully as when they follow ships of certain 
nationalities, notable for their economy, under 
the vain expectation that anything for them to 
eat will ever be thrown overboard from those 
ships. 

The tourist will note the decreasing length of 
the days as he sails eastward, and the increasing 
as he travels westward on his return voyage. He 
will regard the long days in the high latitudes 
in the summer season and the reverse in 
winter; the sailors casting the log every two 
hours; the taking account of the temperature of 
the water; the observations made by the officers 
in order to determine the exact daily latitude and 
longitude of the ship, and to estimate the dis- 
tance over which the ship has passed since noon 
of the day previous ; to study the storms, the 
heavens, the ever receding and approaching hor- 
izons ; to ride the billows and the troughs of the 



48 OCEAN VOYAGE. 

sea — all these are full of deep interest to the 
tourist. 

But the sympathies of the passengers are all 
aroused when, far out at sea, some land-bird with 
strength fairly expended, which has strayed and 
become wholly lost in its reckonings, alights 
upon the ship and immediately goes to sleep 
from exhaustion. This gives some idea of the 
extent of the ocean, and of its unfriendly and 
inhospitable wastes. 

The days of the greatest official vigilance are 
those in which the dense fogs off the Banks of 
Newfoundland enshroud the ship in impene- 
trable mist ; the fog whistle is blown every 
minute or two, for days and nights together 
sometimes ; the new passenger will awake in the 
morning, or in the night it may be, and the 
whistle will impress him for the moment that he 
is just coming into a station on a sleeping-car, 
but soon he realizes that he is in the midst of the 
troubled deep. 

As the vessel approaches the pier, the passen- 
gers show themselves upon deck, their ship attire 
generally exchanged for their shore clothes. The 
steamer having finally settled herself at her dock 
to rest from her long and weary journey, the pas- 
sage-ways being thrown up, the passengers 
hasten to bid each other good-bye, their hearts 
fairly sad that the separation, although anxiously 
anticipated, has come so soon. 



ENTERING THE PORT OF DESTINATION. 49 



XII. — Entering the Port of Destination. 

Upon approaching port the ship is boarded by 
a pilot who comes out to meet it, and the health 
officer who inspects it at the quarantine station, 
and should the ship carry mails, the official barge 
will probably come out for them at this station in 
order to expedite their delivery. These officers 
bring newspapers, the passengers eagerly crowd 
around the lucky man to get sight of this intelli- 
gent visitor. How welcome is the paper to us so 
long without it! If the ship comes to quarantine 
at night, it seldom leaves before daylight the next 
morning. Shortly before reaching port the cus- 
toms officers usually arrive, and sometimes the 
baggage is examined by them before it is put off 
the ship. 

The passenger should surely see that all his 
pieces of baggage are gathered together at some 
convenient place, in order that the examining offi- 
cer shall be at the least amount of time and trouble 
in the discharge of his duties. The customs 
examination is a simple affair to an honest 
passenger who readily opens his trunks and 
portmanteaus, and answers frankly the questions 
put to him by the officer. In connection with 
this matter, and at the risk of being thought 
unkind, I may be permitted to hint to tourists 
that it is a matter of grave inconvenience, and 
often of risk to them, to carry orders from friends 
for purchases to be made in Europe. Examina- 
tions being done, the pieces are closed and the 
officer marks upon them with chalk some weird 



50 ENTERING THE PORT OF DESTINATION. 

symbols which prevent their further detention. 
English customs officers frequently examine only 
one.out of three pieces of luggage, or two out of 
six. 

At New York the officers come on board the 
ship before it arrives at the pier. One of the 
officers brings blanks which he fills out according 
to the statement of each passenger, as to the 
number of pieces of luggage and dutiable articles 
in his possession, and hands to each person a 
slip of paper on which is the corresponding 
number of his blank, which, as soon as com- 
pleted, is handed to a second officer, if there be 
one, who calls upon the passenger by number to 
testify that this statement is " true to the best of 
his knowledge and belief." This is all until the 
baggage is landed upon the dock and taken into 
the enclosure. The passenger first sees that his 
different pieces are all placed together, as before 
stated, and then goes to the front, where stands 
an officer with all the filled-out and numbered 
blanks. On presenting his numbered slip, the 
officer finds the corresponding blank, hands it to 
a sub-officer and directs liim to go at once and 
examine that baggage. The pieces should be 
rapidly opened for inspection, as time is valuable 
in the hurry and scurry of these occasions. The 
examination finished and the luggage chalked, 
the tourist is at liberty to take it away. No fees 
are due any customs officers for this labor. For 
the Custom-House Regulations for the Conti- 
nental ports, note the following : 

" Passengers, on landing, are not permitted to 
take more than one small bag with them on 
shore. The Custom-House Porters who are re- 
sponsible for its safety, convey it direct from the 
vessel to the Custom-House, where the owner, to 



ENTERING THE PORT OF DESTINATION. 5 1 

save personal attendance, had better send the 
Hotel Commissionaire afterwards with the keys. 
The Commissionaire will also obtain the neces- 
sary official signature of the police to the trav- 
eler's passport. The landlord of the inn is 
responsible for his honesty. When passing your 
own luggage you will find that at no time are 
courtesy and good-humor better repaid than 
during its examination. Never be in a hurry ; 
collect your packages and open them one by one 
yourself ; lock one before the next is ' visited.' 
The officers are only doing their duty, and can 
make that duty very disagreeable in return for 
any hauteur or want of courtesy. Always 
' declare ' any article you believe liable to duty, 
and remember that every Custom-House Officer 
abroad can search your person if he chooses. 

" All articles such as wearing apparel, not 
having been worn, must be declared at the Custom- 
House. Travelers not conforming to this regula- 
tion, will incur not only the confiscation of the 
articles not declared, but also the payment of a 
fine. Silks, lace, and other foreign goods, 
packed with articles of apparel, or otherwise 
concealed, are, as well as the articles in which 
they may be placed, liable to seizure ; and 
travelers are warned that the seizure is strictly 
enforced, unless the examining officer is informed 
of the articles being in the package and the 
goods duly declared previously to its being 
opened." 



FINDING A HOTEL AFTER LANDING. 



XIII.— Finding a Hotel after Landing. 

It is assumed that the passenger, being an 
American, already knows how to reach the hotels 
or railroad depots upon landing at New York. 

But suppose him landed in Europe, as at 
Glasgow. Here he finds porters who offer to 
carry his baggage ; " barrow-men " who have a 
moderately-sized two-wheeled hand-cart called 
a barrow, and are licensed for transporting 
goods about the city, being obliged by law to 
produce the number by which they are officially 
registered whenever called upon for it ; cabs, 
upon the top of which is the sign " engaged " or 
" disengaged." He should select his hotel before 
reaching the city ; and during all his travels it 
would be well to know beforehand the hotels at 
which he wishes to stop. If he engage one of the 
porters to transfer his luggage to the hotel he 
should clearly specify the price at the time of 
engaging ; if he take a cab he can ride with his 
baggage at about the same expense as if he sent 
it alone. 

To prevent misunderstanding, and to guard 
against extortion, it is well to take a note of the 
number which is always in full view upon the 
cab. It should be borne in mind that cab-drivers 
do not handle baggage except to place it when 
lifted up to them, and to hand it down, for it is 
not their business — the lifters and carriers are 
the porters; and at the hotels, sometimes the 
" boots." 

If the tourist secure a barrow he should see his 



FINDING A HOTEL AFTER LANDING. 53 

luggage placed on the cart, and ask for the 
barrow-man's number, and on being assured 
that it will be delivered within a specified time, 
suppose an hour, he can take his course on foot 
to the hotel. In due time the luggage is received 
at the office and the man is paid his stipulated 
price. 

In general, in Europe, a traveler depends upon 
a cab to take himself and his baggage to a hotel, 
for he does not find the express-delivery compa- 
nies, as in New York. 



54 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 



XIV. — European Hotels. 

In general, European hotels, frequently called, 
in England by the old name of inns, 
are institutions by themselves. Many of 
them are entered from the street through arched 
passage-ways, some of which lead to an inner 
court often decorated with flowers and fountains. 
Both ladies and gentlemen enter by the same 
passage, there being no " ladies' entrance " as in 
our hotels. Perhaps the first impression upon 
entering the ordinary European hotel will be that 
it is small and crowded ; the entrance hall is 
narrow and short, and it does not open into large 
spaces anywhere ; it will be a query where the 
office is located, as well as where you can be 
lodged in that house, but further acquaintance 
will reveal its liberal capacity. The theory upon 
which hotels are conducted is that they are large 
private boarding-houses to which the public are 
allowed access. They are private in this, that 
there is no mingling of guests as in our hotels ; 
there is not the common large parlor, the large 
office, the general dining-room, exclusively such. 
This is true with the great majority of hotels 
which the ordinary tourist meets, yet in some of 
them he will find the parlor, the smoking-room, 
the commercial-room, but the bar-room as it 
exists in the United States is rarely found, if at 
all. The wines and liquors are served at meals 
in the dining-room, or they can be ordered to the 
smoking-room, the commercial-room, or the 
private room. 



EUROPEAN HOTELS. 55 

With rare exceptions, guests are not called 
upon to register their names at the hotels in Scot- 
land, England or Ireland. The people travel as 
private individuals ; they do not desire their 
names to be heralded, they prefer quiet. 
The landlord is a serving-man and he feels that 
it is a delicate matter to ask a stranger his name 
and residence, for perhaps he prefers to remain 
unknown. The tourist occasionally may be 
asked to register, or he may see lying on a side- 
table in the entrance-hall or waiting-room a book 
labeled " Visitors' Book," and the posted notice, 
"Visitors will please register their names," or 
" Guests will please write their names in the 
Visitors' Book." But this registration is no essen- 
tial part of the hotel requirements, all the 
identity the guest need have is the number of his 
room. However, in Germany, especially, a 
stranger entering a hotel or boarding-house is 
required to give his name, nationality, and place 
of residence, and this information is handed at 
once to the police department; this fact causes 
the tourist to feel singularly haunted by official 
eyes, even though he is wholly unknown there- 
abouts. By this system it is easy to inquire of 
the Chief of Police of any city if such a man is 
stopping therein. 

In Europe it is almost universally understood 
that engaging a room at a hotel is engaging 
nothing else, unless it be particularly specified. 
The only exception that comes to my mind is the 
Cockburn Hotel in Edinburgh, which charges 
eleven English shillings per day, everything 
included, as in the United States. A tourist can 
therefore engage a room, and then take his meals 
at the hotel, or at any place that may suit his 
convenience. This course will be much more 



56 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 

economical, as well as quite as satisfactory, often 
times, to his wishes for table-board. 

The person who conducts the house is termed 
the manager, who may or may not be the 
proprietor — if the manager be a lady, as is often 
the case, she is called the landlady — and the 
" office" with us, is the "manager's room " in the 
Islands, and the " Bureau " on the Continent. 
Upon entering a hotel the 'Stranger tourist, occa- 
sionally, may be received by so many men and 
women in full dress that he will be at a loss to 
know whom to address for a room. But making 
his desire known, the manager will select one or 
more of his retinue-in-waiting to assign him a 
room immediately. For instance, in the entrance- 
hall of some of the English hotels we were met 
by the landlady and several of the servants, and 
on our asking for a room the landlady gave 
instructions to a woman, who directed the cham- 
bermaid to conduct us to our room, and the 
" boots " or the porter, if we had occasion for his 
assistance, followed with the luggage, which he 
placed upon the "trunk-stool," an article fre- 
quently found in British hotels. 

The prices of rooms per day vary in most of 
the hotels according to their size and the " flat " 
upon which they are situated. In engaging a 
room the price, as well as what is included, 
should be definitely understood, so that no 
disagreement may afterward arise about the 
terms. In Britain, lights and soap are furnished 
with the room, but on the Continent they are not 
supplied unless ordered, and then at an extra 
cost. To avoid the charge of twenty cents for a 
candle or a piece of soap, the traveler will find it 
an economy to provide himself with these 
articles; also with matches, in Southern Europe. 



EUROPEAN HOTELS. 57 

When he does this, he should so specify at the time 
of engaging his room. "Service," or "attendance," 
is always a separate item in the bill. This 
inquiry should also be made : " How much time 
shall constitute a hotel day ?" That is, by what 
hour of the day must the room be given up by 
the guest when he goes away, in order that he 
shall not be charged for an extra day. The time 
in many hotels is by n A. M. Provided a 
company of tourists desire accommodations it 
would be well, in order to insure rooms, to engage 
them by letter a few days before required. 

The hotel beds demand attention. In the 
British Islands there is so much moisture in the 
atmosphere nearly all of the year that beds are 
often damp. The sheets in many hotels are of 
linen ; if damp, they are more than ordinarily 
chilling so that great watchfulness must be 
exercised if one would escape a cold, rheumatism, 
neuralgia, cramps, or chills. Usually there 
are also a pair of excellent soft woolen blankets 
on the beds, and it is far better to lie between 
these than to risk the sheets if there be any ap- 
pearance of dampness about them. The fact 
that the beds may have been made up for a long 
time, and so left unoccupied and unaired, makes 
the matter far worse. 

The English and Scotch bedsteads are, in 
many cases, very large — nearly as wide as they 
are long, with high corner-posts and frames for 
hangings, and furnished with mattresses, with or 
without springs. An English bed, in some of the 
inland town hotels, is really quite a royal institu- 
tion. On the Continent generally, the beds are 
single, and rooms can be secured containing one, 
two, or more of these, which are composed of 
either mattresses or feathers. The coverings 



58 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 

sometimes include a coverlet of silk or cotton 
filled with feathers or down, French hotels are 
often provided with double beds with hangings, 
somewhat after the manner of the English beds. 
The rooms in European hotels are generally well 
supplied with wardrobes, and there is no lack of 
mirrors — many of the rooms having at least two, 
one of which stands upon a bureau with its back 
directly in front of a window. The tourist will 
see bell-call knobs in the entrance-hall, or in the 
upper-halls, labeled, "Chambermaid" or "C 
maid," "Porter," " Boots," "Ostler," although in 
England, usually, each room is provided with its 
own bell. 

Especially in Scotland and England there are 
many hotels in which the rooms are locked or 
bolted from the inside only, and when the guest 
is absent from his room his goods are necessarily 
exposed to inspection and theft ; but one seldom 
feels, for some reason, any solicitude because of 
this. Instead, there is a feeling of confidence 
that nothing will be disturbed, which feeling is 
rarely abused. It is the exception to see any 
posted notice in the rooms warning guests of the 
danger of theft, and giving specific directions for 
the care of valuables as is the case in American 
hotels. But when the doors can be locked from 
the outside the occupant, on leaving his room, 
should have a care always to lock the door and 
to leave the key with the manager. In the Con- 
tinental hotels the key should be hung under the 
number of the room upon the key-board, which 
is placed conspicuously near the manager's office. 
If this be done the proprietor is responsible for 
the safety of the articles left in the room, other- 
wise not. In European hotels one seldom finds a 
cloak-room where he can obtain checks for coats, 



EUROPEAN HOTELS. 59 

wraps, and hand luggage; these are left with the 
porter, if not in one's room. 

The dining-room, called the " Coffee Room " 
in Britain, is often a more homelike room than 
that of our hotels, being furnished with a more 
or less elaborate side-board, chairs, tables, writing 
materials, guide books, railway time-tables, and 
occasionally is well ordered in busts, mirrors and 
pictures, in some valuable books of travel, history, 
or literature and newspapers, although the 
American hotel reading-room with its full supply 
of the leading newspapers is rarely found. Very 
often are added carpets, large easy -chairs, sofas, 
couches, and racks for hats, wraps and the like. 
At Markgraf s Hotel de l'Europe, in Berlin, the 
books of the manager and his clerk were in the 
dining-room. 

The table servants in all hotels of any preten- 
sions are always men, who are clad in full dress 
of swallow-tailed cloth coat, white necktie, and 
they lack only gloves (which they are said to 
wear sometimes) and hat to be in full costume. 
They are very active ; they will make more mo- 
tions, show more attentive activity, and accom- 
plish less actual business than perhaps any other 
class of persons whom it is one's pleasure or for- 
tune to meet. These waiters are liberal in their 
labors ; one of them will frequently go entirely 
across the dining-room for a knife to place at 
your plate ; then he will go back and bring a 
fork, and he has been known to come and change 
them for others, one at a time. When a table is 
full of hungry tourists, one will start to serve )'Ou, 
but, being stopped by another guest to inquire 
when he can be waited upon, you may possibly 
be served after the demands of two or three other 
persons are attended to ; the last one who attacks 



60 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 

him has always the greatest probability of receiv- 
ing his attentions. A crowd of demands is usually 
too much for the majority of waiters, and real 
pleasure is attained at the hotel only when a 
guest or two can alone command the entire ser- 
vices of one waiter. This phase of hotel life is a 
curious study ; this fussiness and delay and vex- 
ation arise from the very system itself. Each 
waiter must keep a correct account of what he 
serves to each guest, if it be anything out of the 
regular course. It is the almost universal prac- 
tice for Europeans to order extras, particularly 
wines, at each meal. The waiters serve these 
extras, taking a note of the number of the room 
occupied by the guest, and what he orders, thereby 
delaying the other guests, for the waiters seem 
absolutely confused by the multitude of orders. 
I often thought that if one of these waiters should 
be suddenly called upon to assist in one of the 
New York eating-houses during the busy hours, 
he would go stone crazy from sheer confusion of 
his mental inelasticity. 

Tourists must assign from one hour to one 
hour and a half from the time that it is " on," to 
every regular dinner or table d'hote of which 
they partake. The hour set for this meal varies 
from .2 p. m. to 6 p. m. A table d'hote is a fixed 
institution. The waiters act under orders from 
the waiter-in-chief or butler who is in charge of 
affairs. This is the state meal of the day, and hence 
the dress-parade of the establishment, guests and 
all. To cite a particular instance, somewhat 
typical : The guests sit side by side at long and 
usually wide tables ; the dishes and glasses are 
numberless ; napkins and a little piece of bread 
are at each plate ; the bills of fare are as plenty 
as at the rate of one to every fifteen or twenty 



EUROPEAN HOTELS. 6l 

guests. The signal is given by the waiter-in- 
chief, and the waiters hasten to serve plates of 
soup — guests who desire wines now begin to 
order them — the soup being finished by all, the 
plates are removed ; the waiter brings fish ; per- 
haps more wine is ordered ; fish plates removed, 
and clean plates distributed ; meats, as mutton, 
beef and the like, served, at the preference of each 
guest, and accompanied with vegetables, as pota- 
toes and peas ; dishes removed ; ice brought 
upon the table for wines and water ; clean plates 
placed upon the table ; game, fowl, and garden 
extras served — may be boiled plums, peas, chicken 
and lettuce, all for one plate ; plates changed 
again ; tarts, cooked fruits, puddings with milk, 
sugar and sauce served ; dishes changed ; nuts 
and ripe fruit, crackers, butter in thimble-rolls 
and bits, and cheese in the large lump, passed ; 
guests retire. No dish is served out of course, so 
there is no use of hurrying ; it is best to enjoy 
the dinner as an institution, or else do not be 
present at it, as guests pay for only those meals 
of which they partake. A traveler, whom I met, 
said of these formal dinners : " How I dislike the 
table d'hote, and I hate the sight of one of them 
white necktie fellers that wait upon the table!" 
Yet it is the meal of the day, and is, on the whole, 
a very enjoyable occasion, the courses being 
many, the food palatable and generally plentiful 
in quantity, and the very formality lends an in- 
terest to it that is not without its pleasure. 

A " plain " breakfast or a " plain " tea consists 
of coffee, chocolate or tea, rolls or bread, white or 
brown, butter, and, in Switzerland, honey. If 
the tourist desires meat or eggs he must so 
specify at the time of ordering either of these 
meals, which then is termed a " meat " breakfast 



62 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 

or a " meat " tea, on account of the addition of 
these extras, which are so charged in the bill. 

The following scale of prices taken from our 
own bills in England and Scotland will show the 
usual charge for necessary hotel expenses : 

Beds 2S. to 3s. 

Breakfast. . . is. 6d. to 3s. 

Dinner 2s. 6d. to 5s. 

Tea is. 6d. 

Supper 2s. to 3s. 

Attendance is. 6d. 

Also is added the copy (translated) of a bill of 
one of the Continental hotels : 

Candle 20 cts. 

Breakfast (plain) 30 cts. 

Two eggs, boiled ..... 12 cts. 

Dinner 1 dollar 

Plain tea 30 cts. 

Cold meat 30 cts. 

Room, one day 90 cts. 

Service 20 cts. 

Tourists must expect to find less haste and 
bustle and dispatch in the European hotel ser- 
vice than in that of America. This will often 
prove a source of annoyance, unless provided 
against by leaving orders beforehand. If an early 
breakfast is desired, an order must be left with 
the manager the night before, naming in detail 
what is wished. It is also best to arrange in the 
morning for lunch in the middle of the day, and 
to fix the hour for dinner, which is late in the 
afternoon, or for supper or tea in the evening. If 
departing in the early morning, leave orders on 
the previous evening with the porter for caring 
for luggage or calling a cab, if needed, and settle 
all bills, carefully examining them to see if all 



EUROPEAN HOTELS. 63 

the items are correct, for errors quite occasionally 
are made, where there are many guests, by the 
waiters confusing the items and charging them to 
the wrong room. Such mistakes should be rec- 
tified at the "Paying Bureau" or "Manager's 
Office." 

It is an advisable plan to pay no fees to the 
servants until the guest is ready to depart, as this 
course will insure better continued attentions. 
He need give himself no solicitude about being 
able at that time to find the deserving servants 
who have aided him, for they will attend upon 
him very carefully until he is finally started — 
they will be in the halls, on the stairs, at the 
doors, and at the carriage. 

When city guides are needed they can be 
ordered at the hotels, where the tourist can also 
obtain writing materials and postage stamps, and 
should exchange larger pieces of money for 
small coins, as cab-men, guides and porters rarely 
have a supply of change. Printed " washing lists " 
are usually found in the rooms, or are furnished on 
request, and laundry work can be ordered done 
on very short notice, and paid for at the time of 
settling the hotel bill. The leading Continental 
hotels keep clerks who can speak English. 

A matter of considerable moment to tourists 
is that of the water-closets (' W. C,' or ' O,' or 
'Cabinet,') especially in the French hotels, 
which, in the cities, are so arranged that these 
closets, situated upon each flat, communicate by 
a window with the inner court into which also 
are directed often the steams from the kitchen. 
These closets generally have no supply of water, 
depending entirely upon the waste water which 
the chamber attendants may empty into them. 
As must be the case they are exceedingly offens- 



64 EUROPEAN HOTELS. 

ive and deleterious to health. Having no venti- 
lating flues nor disinfecting earths, the halls and 
rooms situated near them become contaminated 
with the poisonous odors which have their origin 
in the want of an adequate water supply. Hence 
it is of first importance to health that rooms be 
secured sufficiently distant from them to escape 
these dangers. 

The following from the pen of Mr. G. W. 
Smalley, the valued London correspondent of 
the New York Tribune, will further set forth this 
matter : 

"In the quarter of Paris most frequented by travelers, the 
evil of defective drainage or ventilation is almost as great as in 
the purely French quarters. My experience of French and 
other hotels is considerable, and I seriously advise American 
travelers in Paris to insist on examining for themselves the 
arrangements for closet ventilation. They will often find them 
scandalously bad, and it is certain that the methods of drainage, 
into which a passing traveler cannot well inquire, are equally 
careless. I have known personally of many cases of typhoid 
arising in Paris. There was one in particular last year in 
which I had an interest, and I returned some months later to 
the hotel from which it had sprung, with a view to looking into 
the matter. I examined the rooms occupied by the invalid. 
The apartments consisted of a parlor, two bed-rooms, dressing- 
room and water closet. The latter was ventilated through the 
ante-room leading to the parlor and bed -rooms, and in no other 
way whatever. On my objecting to this, the landlord, without 
any mark of surprise, offered me another suite of rooms which, 
he assured me, were wholly free from any objection, the closet 
being well away from the rooms. This also I examined, and 
the landlord's description was, so far as it went, true enough. 
The closet in this case had a window, but the window opened 
upon the main staircase, so that the typhoid poison was thus 
conveniently distributed throughout the house, instead of being 
concentrated in a single apartment. This is a well-known hotel, 
largely patronized by Americans. I do not name it, because I 
have no reason to suppose it worse than many others —certainly 
no worse than, at least, one other in the same street The 
foreign physicians resident in Paris know perfectly well the state 
of things that exists. For obvious reasons, they do not say 



EUROPEAN HOTELS. 65 

much about it, but they will, I presume — at least I have known 
of- cases in which they have done it — give an opinion when it is 
sought, and say whether or not they consider a particular hotel 
fit or unfit to live in. I dare say there are people who think 
this an unpleasant topic for public discussion, but I don't feel 
called upon to take account of mere prudery in a matter where 
health and life are concerned. Nor am I writing on conjecture 
or hearsay, but from knowledge confirmed by professional 
opinion.*'- — Tribune, Nov. 1877. 

When a tourist purposes to stay in any city or 
town a number of days, and he seeks economy in 
expense, it can readily be secured by taking 
" apartments " at one place and meals at a restau- 
rant ; or rooms and meals at some of the many 
boarding-houses, or pensions, as they are so 
generally called. Restaurants are readily found 
where meals can be either eaten, or ordered sent 
to one's apartments. These accommodations are 
of varying degrees of price and of excellence. 
The leading guide books of Europe give the 
names of the most important of the pensions, and 
frequently also the cafes or restaurants. 



66 EUROPEAN CITIES. 



XT.— European Cities. 

As a wholesale statement, European cities are 
more compactly built than those of America, and 
they impress the traveler, new to them, as being 
dense,which impression is deepened by the real and 
apparent narrowness of the streets, by the high 
structures, and by the general effect which the 
buildings give of age, of stability, of permanency, 
of the dull, gray, solemn antiquity which seems 
to shadow some of the quarters whence sprung 
ancient and mediaeval history. Sometimes, 
perhaps quite often, the impression will be that 
of disappointment ; the city or town is small 
compared with the previously formed notions of 
it ; the town may be almost entirely modern in 
style, it having been rebuilt ; the guide books 
may name a large population for any given city, 
which when entered seems surprisingly small 
because of the densely clustered buildings, which 
literally swarm with people who live in story 
above story, and in underground stories. These 
various cities, while they now may be of one 
nationality and general government, yet each 
retains in a measure the spirit and form of its 
ancient, historical, individual, civil and social 
existence, and has its own patron saint. 

.The tourist, while he is projecting routes should 
study into these individualities by all the assist- 
ance that he can reach by means of guide books, 
newspapers, or conversations, in order that he 
may be able to visit the cities at the times when 
they will avail him most. To this end he must 



EUROPEAN CITIES. 67 

learn the time of the fast and feast days ; of the 
holidays ; of the fair days ; of the fete or festival 
days ; of the multitude of saints' days and other 
holydays ; of the market days ; of the numerous 
excursion days in the summer season ; of the cattle 
and horse-show days ; of the days and hours 
when certain art galleries are opened, and when 
religious services close churches and cathedrals 
to visitors ; of days of national games ; of clan 
days ; of free exhibition days of the art galleries, 
museums, churches, cathedrals, and the like, and 
of the days when fees are charged to enter all 
these ; of the seasons when the tourist may avail 
himself of the musical exhibitions and rehearsals; 
of the months when especially desirable art 
collections can be visited, particularly in Ger- 
many ; of the times when government buildings 
can be entered ; of the season when the Parlia- 
ments, Chambers of Deputies, and other chief 
legislative bodies, as well as when the courts or 
assizes, are in session. 

The American tourist will be impressed 
generally as he looks along a street extending 
before him, that there is a want of something, he 
knows not what ; an absence of something which 
gives a feeling of nakedness to the rows of build- 
ings which border on the streets. Upon examina- 
tion the streets are seen to be free from projecting 
signs which are so common in the cities of the 
United States, these being painted upon the 
buildings instead ; neither are there prominently 
jutting cornices upon the buildings ; occasionally 
there are overhanging balconies, which are really 
entire rooms above the first story, and extending 
out well over the street, sometimes half-way 
across, formerly, in many cases, being met by a 
like balcony from the opposite side, the two 



68 EUROPEAN CITIES. 

together forming a sort of arch over the street. 
In most cities where balconies are now built, 
their width is limited by law, especially in 
Southern Europe, where there are so many of 
them. 

The traveler will also be struck with the gen- 
eral narrowness of the sidewalks ; he will, before 
many days, find the roadway far more pleasant, 
and will feel no scruples to walk therein, readily 
conforming himself to the custom of the inhabit- 
ants. To these narrow footways there are nota- 
ble exceptions, as in portions of London, in the 
leading boulevards of Paris, the Unter den Lin- 
den in Berlin, the Boompjes of Rotterdam, the 
Anlage of Heidelberg, and the Grand Quai of 
Geneva. 

• Some places are worthy of study on account of 
many of their sidewalks being under or in the 
buildings, they really being the first story space 
of the houses on the street, as in Berne, and on 
the Square of St. Mark in Venice ; or the second 
story space reached by steps, as in Chester, where 
they are called " rows," the shops opening off 
from the inner side. The old walls and fortifica- 
tions about some of the cities are matters of great 
interest, as the wall which completely encircles 
the old portion of Chester, and the immense for- 
tifications which lie about Cologne. 

The mail wagons and street letter-boxes will 
attract attention. In London they are painted 
red, and on the Continent frequently yellow. 
The wagons when gathering the mails for the 
general post-office, and when delivering them at 
the railway station, are allowed the right of way 
and greater speed over other conveyances. 

The policemen, in their pronounced uniforms, 
are the traveler's friends ; they are attentive and 



EUROPEAN CITIES. 69 

obliging. In Great Britain they carry clubs for 
defense, on the Continent swords. 

The chimney-tops in European cities strike one 
with their peculiar appearance. The chimneys 
are wide, containing flues which are mostly terra- 
cotta or red tile cylinders extending upward 
prominently beyond the tops of the chimneys, 
and are of varying height, which gives the effect 
of strangeness. In Geneva these top flue-exten- 
sions are made apparently of sheet-iron or tin, 
and are some longer, some shorter, some with 
caps, some without caps, some running out to the 
right, some to the left hand, some here, some 
there, thus giving a kind of wild serial effect to the 
tops of the buildings and suggesting great horns 
on great heads of great cattle. 

In Great Britain the cities, notably London, 
are more or less enlivened by bells from clocks 
and from towers. On the Continent they are 
conspicuous by their absence, except in certain 
cities, and in those in which bells are worn upon 
the horses in the streets. 

The traveler, accustomed to the American 
manner of numbering the houses upon the 
streets, will be bewildered occasionally in some 
of the European cities in his efforts to find a 
given number on the street, and he will not dis- 
cover the bewildering element until he sees that 
the numbers upon the doors are regular in order 
down one side of the street to the " bottom " of 
it, and back on the other to the " top " of it, in- 
stead of alternating on one side and then on the 
other. Again, he will often address himself in ex- 
pectation of a long walk down or up a street ; but 
before he has fairly started, and without any ap- 
parent change in the street, he will suddenly find 
its name changed — he is in another street, having 



70 EUROPEAN CITIES. 

passed entirely through the first, and is still in 
the same thoroughfare. 

The eager tourist, so alive to whatever is of 
interest to him, will be usually astonished to find 
the inhabitants living amid those scenes in a 
state of semi-torpidity as to these particular 
things, measuring their interest in them by the 
amount of money which they hope to obtain by 
means of them from the tourists who pass that 
way. Many of the Continental cities have their 
customs officers at the city limits, guarding all 
the principal entrance avenues, and collecting 
taxes, tolls and revenues. 

Paris is a city that is great in its boulevards, 
or wide and long streets ; in its finely sculptured 
buildings; in its public monuments; in its Champs 
Elysee ; in its shaded gravel areas called "jar- 
dins " ; in its central points by gaslights ; in its 
being apparently surrounded on nearly two sides 
by an extensive forest, and in its important sub- 
urbs. The motto, " Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite," 
frequently meets the eye as one looks upon the 
public buildings. In the light of French history 
one is thoughtful in regard to the proper mean- 
ing of the words. If Paris is a great city by day- 
light, much more is it a brilliant city under gas- 
light. 

London is great in its possession of nearly four 
millions of inhabitants ; in its miles upon miles of 
superficial area ; in its long distances within the 
city limits ; in its immense business blocks ; in its 
great buildings, as that of the Bank of England, 
which covers about seven acres of ground ; in its 
public monuments of historic interest ; in its cel- 
ebrated Abbey and Cathedral ; in its extensive 
palaces ; in its by-streets and alleys, celebrated 
for those who formerly lived there ; in its noble 



EUROPEAN CITIES. 7 I 

streets, which yet seem narrow because of the 
great height of the buildings ; in its capacious 
and massive docks ; in its wonderful facilities for 
rapid transit ; in its great museums, galleries, and 
science gardens ; in the uniform courtesy of its 
city servants, as the police, the omnibus drivers 
and conductors ; in the winter season, for its dense, 
hazy, semi-opaque, gas enshrouding fogs ; and in 
its numerous parks, which are so many actual 
rural retreats with all of the retirement, restful- 
ness and quiet, even in the very midst of the din 
of the great eity, and where the people can walk 
and lie upon the grass, if they desire, without 
being disturbed by the police. 

Rome, the greatest museum of the world, to- 
day is great in her ruins of Imperial Rome, lying 
half buried amid heaps of rubbish and clamber- 
ing vines, or, exhumed, speaking of former ease 
and luxury ; in her gieat squares, with their col- 
umns, and surrounded with lofty buildings ; in 
her triumphal arches and ever-flowing fountains ; 
in her churches and basilicas, with their cloisters, 
the crescent-shaped colonnades inclosing the 
wide-spreading piazza of St. Peter's, with its obe- 
lisk and spraying fountains in the centre, and the 
imposing dome rising over all ; in her villas, with 
their gardens, and groves of Italian pine, with its 
broad-spreading top, the dark cypress and the 
ilex ; in her palaces, with their immense courts 
encompassed by high walls ; in her Colosseum, 
catacombs, and ruined aqueducts ; in her Vati- 
can, the treasure-house of the masterpieces of 
Raphael and Angelo. 



72 TRAVELING IN CITIES. 



XYI.— Traveling in Cities. 

It should always be the tourist's first business, 
on visiting a city, to provide himself with good 
local maps ; those which are cheap and conven- 
ient to carry are easily obtained. By diligent 
inquiry of the guidebook and of other available 
sources of information, and in connection with 
the map and pocket-compass, determine in which 
portion of the town the points of interest are sit- 
uated ; then study well the routes of public tfavel 
leading to them. The managers of the hotels 
and the city police are valuable aids in this work 

If the places sought can be readily reached by 
the regular lines of street cars, or tramways as 
they are called in Europe, or by the omnibus 
lines, these are the best means for traveling 
distances at a small cost. The omnibuses and 
trams are " double-decked," that is, they have 
seats on the top in addition to the inside seats. 
In Berlin and Paris, as well as in some other of 
the Continental cities, perhaps quite generally, 
the ordinary omnibus lines have regular stations 
along the route at which stops are made for the 
accommodation of passengers. The theory of 
the enterprise appears to be the convenience of 
the company rather than that of the public, and it is 
exceedingly annoying to one who is accustomed 
to the American and English system of accom- 
modation. If a tourist wishes an omnibus he 
must walk to one of the stations, which are small 
offices near the sidewalks and at some distance 
apart. He then, especially in Paris, will be 



TRAVELING IN CITIES. 73 

furnished with a small circular card-disc having a 
number upon it. When the omnibus comes up, an 
officer allows the passengers to go on board in the 
order of their numbers, and when the legal quota 
of passengers has entered, no more are received 
and the coach is ordered to proceed. The 
tourist, in securing his admission number, should 
understand that the color of the card determines 
whether he is entitled to an inside or an outside 
seat. A person can sometimes run his own risk 
to get upon the omnibus between stations, if 
there be room for him, and do the same about 
getting off, although occasionally the omnibus 
will stop between stations to allow ladies to 
descend. The fares are collected of the 
passengers on board the omnibus. The 
upper, or outside seats are the better for sight- 
seeing, and are also the cheaper. In some of the 
Continental cities ladies are not allowed to ride 
upon the upper-deck ; in London they often ride 
on the front deck-seat with the driver. Some of 
these omnibuses contain very characteristic 
notices. In one in London I saw these : 
"Notice ! — Neither dogs nor bundles of unwashed 
linen must be allowed inside the company's 
omnibuses." " To carry 26 passengers ; 12 inside, 
14 outside." Ci To prevent overcharge please pay 
your fare before you arrive at your destination, 
and see the amount duly registered in the way- 
bill on the door," where the bill was affixed. At 
Venice the gondolas, with one boatman, cost one 
lira, ten pence, for the first hour, and fifty cents 
(Italian) for each successive hour. Omnibus gon- 
dolas, for one seat to any part of the city along 
the route, twenty-five cents. At the railway 
stations, the gondolas, one boatman, two francs ; 
two boatmen, three francs, and the boatmen load 



74 TRAVELING IN CITIES. 

the luggage and deliver it at the door of the 
apartments in the hotel. 

Of all European cities for perfection of inter- 
communication and cheapness of rates, commend 
me to London. The omnibus drivers and con- 
ductors are very obliging in stopping for passen- 
gers; they are careful in aiding a stranger to his 
desired routes, always taking great pains not to 
mislead him for the purpose of securing his fare. 

The Metropolitan, sometimes, but erroneously, 
called the "Underground Railway," — for it passes 
only occasionally underground — has stations at 
easy intervals, and is a great aid to travel in 
London. This railway is the same as the 
ordinary train service, in fact is a part of it, only 
it runs under buildings, under streets, on the 
level, over streets, over house-tops, even over 
bridges, under bridges, upon embankments, every- 
where. The rates are low ; the carriages are 
lighted with gas which is contained in pipes in 
and about the carriages, and introduced at given 
stations. 

Cabs and hacks and hansoms, in London, are 
conveniently found in all the business portions of 
the city. It is worth the tourist's while to study 
thoroughly the matter of cab-fares in Europe, 
for although they are all regulated by law, the 
drivers do not hesitate to demand extortionate 
prices from strangers. In Glasgow and Edin- 
burgh, a copy of " Murray's Time Tables," con- 
taining the legal rates for given distances can 
be purchased for a mere trifle, and it will be 
found to aid very materially in saving from the 
overcharging of the hackmen. The police, 
whenever asked, assist in regard to proper 
charges, and in French cities there are some- 
times officers stationed at the cab-stands who 



TRAVELING IN CITIES. 75 

help persons in securing cabs, and give informa- 
tion as to the amount to be paid for the course 
or by the hour. Also, the drivers are obliged 
to give to the passenger, upon his request, the 
printed rates for his inspection. The night rates 
are higher than the day rates. 

Whenever the rates are familiar to the tourist, 
he should not ask the driver the price, but get 
into the cab, give his directions, and when the 
ride is ended hand the exact change, for drivers, 
porters and guides, are very generally a change- 
less, as well as a merciless people On the Con- 
tinent a few "centimes," or "pfennigs" should 
be added to the legal fare as a "pour boire," 
which, were it in England, would be the driver's 
" 'alf and 'alf." By paying this "pour boire" 
without the asking for it the traveler will show 
himself familiar with the customs of the country, 
and thereby be saved much occasional annoy- 
ance. 

The cab-drivers have their peculiar outfit of hat 
and boots, and coat, and quaint gear generally; 
they drive much less rapidly when hired by the 
hour than when by the course ; they have great 
skill in slowing their horses by physical activities 
which we are accustomed to regard as quicken- 
ing to horse flesh. They have their signs for " Do 
you wish a cab, Sir?" At Berne a cabby lifts 
his hat clear from his head with his right hand ; 
in Berlin he touches his hat with the forefinger 
of his right hand ; in London he points to his 
hat, or simply raises his hand They drive poor 
horses, which are more distinguished for the 
prominence of their skeletons than for their 
rate of speed — except in London. 

When the tourist is limited in his time for 
visiting a strange town, it will be an advantage 



76 TRAVELING IN CITIES. 

to engage a guide by the hour or by the day. 
The manager of the hotel will inform him of the 
legal charges, or else the guide must show his 
rates upon a printed slip. In any event, arrange 
the charges definitely before starting out, and 
carefully note the time of starting, writing both 
it and the rate in the presence of the guide. This 
precaution seems hardly necessary, but a little 
incident, not uncommon, will illustrate its neces- 
sity. While in Mayence, I engaged a cab for an 
hour for two " marks," starting from the hotel 
at 7:30 A. M., the manager telling me the price, 
and, by accident, I noted the hour of starting. 
We returned at 8:20 A. M.; I handed the driver 
two marks, but he hesitated and jabbered some- 
what at me. The manager, who was present, 
said that he demanded half a mark more for 
fifteen minutes over the hour for which I had 
employed him. I showed the manager my note 
of the time, and I heard no more of the unjust 
demand. The consciences of some of these 
drivers are not celebrated for the delicacy of 
their decisions, when their own pockets are con- 
cerned in the transaction. 

When a guide is once engaged, give him full 
encouragement to talk, even though you appre- 
hend that some of his historical statements are 
drawn directly from his own imagination, but 
hold him until he has shown you all he has agreed 
to show, else he may cut short his tour, leaving 
you in the lurch. A guide is an institution, and, 
on the whole, a good one. It is better to allow 
one's self to accept some pure fiction of the im- 
agination than to be a stranger in a city, on short 
time, trying vainly to find the places of real in- 
terest which one seeks. 

Porters in cities are designated by some official 



TRAVELING IN CITIES. 77 

badge, which is properly numbered and hangs 
about their shoulders by a strap, or is worn about 
the cap or hat. These porters are general mes- 
sengers to carry luggage or to run on errands of 
any kind. 

In Europe, all officials, in general, are distin- 
guished by their dress, much more than in 
America. 



78 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL 



XYII. — Railways and Railway Travel. 

The tourist should provide himself with a good 
railway guide book, and then intelligently study 
it, which is not always an easy thing to do in or- 
der to become familiar with it. " Bradshaw's 
Monthly Continental Railway Guide," containing 
the official time and fare-tables of all the Conti- 
nental railways, steamboats, diligences, mail 
coaches ; giving full information respecting ho- 
tels, routes, foreign moneys ; also describing 
briefly each country, with its principal cities and 
places of interest, and illustrated with maps of 
various countries, can be purchased for three 
shillings and sixpence, including a separate book 
of city maps; and his " Guide of the English Rail- 
ways for sixpence. " Cook's Continental Time 
Tables and Tourist Handbook," price thirty-five 
cents, his "Map of Central Europe," price ten cents, 
will be found very valuable. 

In Europe each public system of travel is called 
a " service," as railway service, steamboat service, 
diligence service, omnibus service. 

With the exception of a line or two of railway 
service in Switzerland, the coaches, which are 
called carriages, and sometimes wagons, are gen- 
erally divided into distinct, though somewhat 
narrow, compartments, ranging in numbers from 
four to eight for each carriage, those containing 
eight being as long as our Pullman coach. Each 
compartment contains two seats, extending from 
side to side of the coach and opposite each other, 
so that passengers sit face to face, those on the 



RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 79 

one seat riding with their faces in the direction 
in which the train is moving, the others riding 
backwards. 

The compartments are entered at each end 
through a door in the side of the carriage. These 
doors open outwardly, and the upper half of each 
is a window that lets down into the lower part of 
the door at the pleasure of the passenger. On 
each side of these doors is usually a narrow win- 
dow. The door-fastening, in Britain, is a strong 
spring-knob on the outside ; on the Continent, in 
addition to this knob, there is, on the outside of 
the door, a kind of metal latch, which drops 
down into a catch. The passenger, by dropping 
the window and reaching out his hand, easily 
opens the door. The doors may be locked by 
the train officials, who carry keys. Beneath each 
door, on the English carriage, is one short step, 
and on some of the Continental lines two steps, 
the lower one extending along the whole length 
of the carriage, the upper one being short and 
directly under the door, as in the English coach. 

Upon the outside of the doors, and on the in- 
side occasionally, is indicated the "class " of the 
compartment, as " First Class," " Second Class," 
"Third Class." Some coaches have all of their 
compartments exclusively of one of the three 
classes, and others have those of two or three 
classes, as the first and second, or second and third. 
Hence, a single train may include the three 
classes, or two, or only one class ; the time tables 
specify in regard to this. 

The first class compartments seat six or eight 
passengers and are elegantly upholstered, having 
arm-rests and often head-rests, racks for luggage, 
silk curtains at the windows, Brussels carpets 
upon the floors. Running between Boston and 



8o RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 

Fall River are found some coaches which are 
fitted up in this first class compartment style. 
The second-class compartments seat eight or ten 
passengers, and are furnished similarly to the 
first class, out not so expensively. On the Con- 
tinental lines, particularly in Germany, Switzer- 
land and France, I found these compartments 
fully equal, or even superior, in comfort to the 
first class in England, and "considering comfort 
and convenience, the second class carriages in 
Central Europe are far cheaper and more to be 
recommended than the first and third classes ; 
the first being very much dearer than the second, 
without corresponding advantages, and the third 
little cheaper than the second, and far inferior in 
every respect." 

In the third class compartments the seats are 
plain deal boards, uncushioned except in the 
through trains for long distances, and each seat 
holds five passengers, or ten in the compartment. 
These compartments have luggage racks, some- 
times curtains at the windows, but no carpets nor 
arm-rests. When a coach contains only third class 
compartments, these are often separated from 
each other by partitions, which extend only half 
way from the floor to the ceiling ; thus there are 
virtually several compartments thrown into one. 
I traveled almost exclusively by third class in 
England and Scotland, and found it very com- 
fortable. 

At night, and when passing through tunnels, 
each compartment is lighted, commonly by 
means of a lamp placed in the roof, and over 
which a shade can be drawn if desired. These 
lamps are lighted and extinguished from the roof, 
above which the tops of the lamp-covers are seen 
projecting. 



RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 8l 

In some parts of Europe, especially in the 
northern and central portions, during the cold 
weather of the winter months, the compartments 
are warmed by iron stoves. In countries where 
these are not used, the first and second class com- 
partments are heated by " foot-warmers " or 
" chaufferettes," which are semi-cylindrical or 
rectangular metal cans, from three to four feet 
long, ten to twelve inches wide on the bottom, 
and four to six inches deep, filled with hot water. 
Two of these warmers are placed end to end 
upon the centre of the floor of each compartment, 
extending entirely across the coach, thus enabling 
all the passengers to place their feet upon them, 
and by their radiation of heat making the com- 
partment very comfortable. These warmers are 
taken out at proper intervals and replaced by 
others which have been re-heated. On some lines 
they are apparently supplied only at the request 
of the passengers ; there is no extra fee due for 
these warmers. 

Through trains are provided with signal-cords 
to notify a train officer in case of necessity. In a 
compartment on a train in Scotland I saw, sub- 
stantially, the following notice : 

"NOTICE — CORD COMMUNICATION. 

" There are two cords, one on each side, outside 
the carriages, close to the cornice over the win- 
dows of the carriage doors. Use only the one on 
the right hand side, in the direction in which the 
train is traveling. Passengers are exhorted to 
protect it. The penalty for the needless ringing 
of it, for each offense, shall be a fine not exceed- 
ing £5" 

The tourist will notice compartments, in Eng- 
land, labeled "Smoking," (permission)- in Ger- 



82 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 

many, " Nicht Rauchen," (forbidden); in France, 
" Fumer," (permission), or " Non Fumer," (for- 
bidden); in Holland," Niet Rooken," (forbidden). 
If he objects to smoking, he should not fail to 
note the above, for he can always procure a com- 
partment in which smoking is strictly forbidden. 
" Except in Germany, smoking is only allowed 
on sufferance, and those who object have only to 
insist upon their right ; those who cannot make 
known their wishes from their ignorance of the 
language, have only to point to the notice gen- 
erally attached to the non-smoking carriages, 
which hint proves »for the most part sufficient." 
In regard to smoking, the following notice will 
give further explanation concerning English 
cars. 

" Smoking : — The attention of Passengers is 
directed to the following Bye-Law of the Company 
(North British Railway) on this subject : ' Every 
Person Smoking in any Shed or Covered 
Platform of a Station, or in any building of the 
Company, or in any Carriage, or Compartment of 
a Carriage not specially provided for that purpose, 
is hereby subjected to a penalty not exceeding 
Forty Shillings. The Company's Officers and 
Servants are required to take the necessary steps to 
enforce obedience to this Bye-Law; and any person 
offending against it is liable, in addition to incur- 
ring the penalty above-mentioned, to be sum- 
marily removed, at the first opportunity, from the 
Carriage or from the Company's premises.' 

By Order." 

The through trains on most of the Continental 
lines have compartments reserved exclusively for 
ladies w T ho are traveling alone. In Germany, 
such compartments are labeled " Fiir Damen," 
and in France, "Dames Seules.'" 



RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 83 

Every coach is numbered, as " 2744, All," and 
a safe precaution for the traveler is to carefully 
note the number of the carriage in which he is 
riding, providing he leaves the train at any of 
the stopping places, else, in case of an unexpected 
signal for the departure of the train, he will 
have serious difficulty in finding his compart- 
ment, as all the coaches appear so much alike. 

All passenger trains are accompanied by a 
"guard," or conductor, whose duty it is to 
direct the train according to certain printed 
regulations, of which he possesses a copy. The 
guards and other officials in the railway service 
of England are distinguished by the red bands 
and straps upon their uniforms ; in Germany the 
color is gold, in France, silver. 

Generally in the cars of the European railway 
service there are no retiring closets. The fre- 
quent stops which the trains make are calculated 
to render unnecessary these provisions for the 
comfort of the passengers On the express 

trains (" Schnellzug ") in Germany there are 
" cabinets," which can be reached while the train 
is in motion, by walking upon the narrow, plank- 
step which runs lengthwise under the doors on 
the outside of the carriage. But the walk is very 
dangerous, and, in order to accomplish it safely, 
assistance is required of the guard who may be 
signalled by pulling a cord which is at the top 
ot the compartment, or by pressing an electric 
signal-button which is sometimes provided. 

Some of the coaches in Switzerland and Wur- 
temburg are unsatisfactory imitations of the 
American coach. They have a central aisle, but 
the high-backed seats, each for two persons, are 
arranged in sets of two, facing each other, and a 
partition with a door in the centre divides the 



84 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 

coach into two rooms. In some of the Swiss 
carriages there is posted the following notice, 
generally in German as well as in French : 

" Cabinet dans la Voiture, 
S'adresser aii Conducteur." 
" Avis. 

Les voyageurs qui paient une taxe au Conduc- 
teur recoivent de lui quittance pour leur servir 
en cas de nouveau controle." Passengers enter 
from platforms at the ends of the car as with us. 

Sleeping-cars are not as much used in Europe 
as in the United States. On the Midland Rail- 
way, running from London to Liverpool and to 
Scotland, are the Pullman Palace and Sleeping- 
cars made in the United States. The rates for 
these are the first class fare and an additional 
extra charge. Also, some of the English and 
Continental railways use the Mann Boudoir 
Sleeping-car, which is well supplied with beds, 
lavatories, and retiring closets. It is said to be 
a very comfortable coach, and can be procured 
at a moderate extra charge. 

" Continental railway fares can be ascertained 
without difficulty, a fare-table being usually 
attached to the wall of the booking-office. In 
Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy, the 
fare is legally printed on the tickets, which is a 
great guarantee to the inexperienced traveler, 
against frauds on the part of the booking-clerk. 
The fares on the continent are very much lower 
than in England, being the lowest in Belgium, 
Bavaria, Baden, Wurtemberg, South Italy, Nor- 
way, Sw T eden, and North Germany. In Austria, 
the fares by the slow trains ( Goods with Passen- 
gers ) are little more than half the ordinary fares. 
In Belgium, the fares are often only one-third 



RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 85 

those charged in the United Kingdom ; and in 
the other countries mentioned, are considerably 
below the English fares." 

The fares in England are : For first class, three 
pence per mile ; for second class, two pence ; for 
third class, one penny — i. e. in our currency, six 
cents, four cents, and two cents, respectively. 

In Britain, excursion tickets are sold at some, 
if not all, seasons of the year, when a single 
ticket can be bought for one and a half the usual 
cost for the two rides, and it is good for a given 
time. This adds to the economy of railway 
travel when the tourist wishes to return over the 
same route. 

" Return tickets are almost universal on the 
Continent, and are issued upon terms far more 
liberal than any granted by the English lines. 
As a rule they are only available for the day on 
which they are issued ; but in Germany, they are 
often available for from two to five days, and in 
France, on some lines, for two days, or from 
Saturday to Monday ; whenever return tickets 
are issued, they are issued to third class passen- 
gers. Return tickets are issued in Baden, Bava- 
ria, Denmark, Holland, and Wurtemberg, at a 
fare and a half for the double journey (/. e. a 
reduction of twenty-five per cent, off the double 
fare). In Belgium and Switzerland, a return 
ticket is given at a reduction of twenty per cent., 
or at the rate of one and three-fifths fares ; in 
Saxony, generally, at a fare and one-third ; in 
North Germany, at a rate varying from a fare 
and one-seventh, to a fare and three-fifths. In 
Austria, return tickets are not yet general, but 
are sometimes issued. In France, the rates are 
as follows : On the Nord Railway, one and one- 
half fares (one and seven-tenths fares for third 



86 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 

class) ; on the Ouest Line, one and one-half to 
one and one-third fares (though occasionally 
lower) ; on the Paris, Lyons, and Mediterranean 
Line, one and one-fourth to one and one-third 
fares (issued only on special occasions, and to 
large towns) ; on the Est, one and one-fifth fares 
(except out of Paris, which is one and one-half 
fares and more) ; on the Orleans and Midi Lines, 
return tickets are only issued to and from a few sta- 
tions. In Italy, return tickets (one day only) are 
issued at an average rate of a fare and two-thirds. 
Return tickets are not always available by 
express trains ; inquiry should be made." 

The tourist when purchasing tickets, should be 
careful to inquire, particularly on the Continent, 
whether his proposed ticket will be accepted on 
the through express trains, if he be desirous of 
traveling on those trains, and if he may be 
allowed to break his journey at specified points, 
with permission to continue it upon these trains, 
for otherwise he may find that he will be obliged 
to await other runs which correspond to our slow 
accommodation service, or he may be compelled 
to pay extra fare upon again boarding the 
express. 

In Britain and Holland, tickets are examined, 
punched, and collected by officers at the stations 
— the conductors have nothing apparently to do 
with them. In Germany, the guards attend to 
the tickets, in whole or in part, while the train is 
in motion; and in the night they wear small 
square lamps attached to the breast of their 
coats — this gives them the freedom 01 their hands 
which are needed to hold to the iron braces 
upon the outside of the cars, to prevent their fall- 
ing off the step. 

Passengers having books of (Cook's) traveling 



RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 87 

coupons, should exercise the precaution of care- 
fully examining their books immediately after 
the officers have removed portions, for they some- 
times, by mistake, take out too many of the 
coupons. 

In some portions of Germany the departure of 
trains from the stations is controlled by large 
gong-bells, which are rung by electricity, directed 
by an operator who is in some central office along 
the road ; in other parts of Germany, in Holland, 
in portions of Switzerland, and France, by the 
guard who blows a large tin or brass horn, or a 
ram's horn — at small stations, sometimes by the 
ringing of a hand bell ; in Britain by a small 
metallic whistle blown by conductor, or by a bell. 

The laws are very strict in regard to passen- 
gers getting on or off a train while it is in mo- 
tion, as witness the following : 

" NORTH BRITISH RAILWAY COMPANY. 

NOTICE TO PASSENGERS. 

" The Carriage Doors are not locked on either 
side, and, as they may be opened by Passengers 
or others from the outside, it is specially re- 
quested that Passengers traveling in the Car- 
riages will net lean against the Doors, either 
while the Train is in motion or while it is at a 
stand. 

" Passengers are also enjoined to refrain from 
interfering with the Fastenings of the Carriage 
Doors, and to keep their seats until the train 

IS BROUGHT TO A COMPLETE STAND AT THE PLAT- 
FORM, and only then to leave the Carriages at the 
Platform Side. 

"The Company hereby give distinct notice that 
they will rigidly enforce the following Bye-Law : 

"'Any Passenger entering or leaving, or at- 



55 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 

tempting to enter or leave, any Carriage while 
the train is in motion, or elsewhere than at the 
side of the Carriage adjoining the Platform, or 
other place appointed by the Company for Pas- 
sengers to enter or leave the Carriages, is hereby 
subjected to a penalty not exceeding forty 
shillings.' " 

Observe that in Germany the trains pass each 
other by running upon the right hand track, as 
in America ; in Great Britain and France the 
passing of trains is at the left, which custom is 
observed also by wagons in cities and in the 
country, but pedestrians always keep to the 
right. 

On the English cars the " brake-van " is a 
compartment which has a semi-bay-window ex- 
tending out on each side, from which the guard 
can look both forward and backward along the 
entire train. In this van is a set of machinery 
by which the brakes of the train are manipu- 
lated. In Germany the brake extends above the 
top of the coach, resembling that of our closed 
freight car. Around and over this brake is 
built a small cabin large enough for the guard, 
who reaches it by winding iron stairs from the 
end of the coach. This cabin has glass win- 
dows, from which the guard commands the en- 
tire outlook along the train. Under this guard- 
house is situated the " cabinet," to which refer- 
ence has previously been made. In the Swiss- 
American cars the brakes are upon the plat- 
forms, as with us. 

Upon the European trains there is often a 
swaying motion to the cars, especially of the 
shorter ones, but there is none of that unpleas- 
ant bumping together as in those of the United 
States. The cars have projecting out from each 



RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 89 

lower corner of the frame — two in front and two 
in the rear — iron rods or arms about two feet 
long, the extremity of the outer ends being disk- 
shaped, the inner ends being in some way con- 
nected with strong springs. When two cars are 
attached together, the disks first come in con- 
tact ; the coupling is made of two short chains 
fastened to a screw and nut, by w T hich the two 
cars are drawn tightly together, the disks being 
in contact and the springs in tension. The 
whole train is thus literally one continuous coach, 
for when the engine starts or stops, these stiff 
springs break any jar or pitching or bumping, 
and all the coaches appear to start and stop as 
one. These spring-buffers are a great advantage 
over the couplings now in use in the United 
States. 

The trains in each country, in their general ap- 
pearance, have their own individualities, which 
the tourist will soon mark. Those of Germany 
approach nearest those of our country — the smoke 
stacks are larger, the cars are heavier than in the 
other European countries, where the coaches are 
light and the engines small. The trains are far 
less noisy than ours ; the whistles are not so 
loud nor sounded so long; their speed is usually 
good and on express trains rapid, especially in 
England. Many of the freight cars are mere 
open platform wagons, with large rubber blan- 
kets thrown over the goods. On most of the 
trains the engineers and firemen have but very 
little protection from the weather, often only 
what corresponds to the upright front portion of 
our engineer's room, having windows in front for 
the engineer's outlook. The night engines have 
two front-lights, which are located at the lower 
corners of the engine-carriage, directly over the 



90 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 

wheels. The locomotives look curiously abrupt 
and unfinished in front, because they have no 
cow-catchers, only the projecting spring-buffers. 

Along the railways, at varying distances apart, 
are the cottages of the plate-layers, whose duty is 
to watch over the road, to make small repairs, 
and to report to the superintendent any serious 
disarrangement. Sometimes, one of these cot- 
tages is adjacent to a level road crossing, at 
which gates must be closed across the track to 
allow the passage of road travelers, and opened 
only when trains signal their approach. The 
plate-layer's wife often performs the duty of gate- 
keeper, and as the train passes she may be seen 
standing motionless, holding the signal-flag. 

If the European cars lack many of the accom- 
modations which the American coaches afford, 
still they are in thorough keeping with the notion 
of privacy or exclusion in associations which 
characterize the country. In all justice to the 
disadvantages which Europeans suffer, the pass- 
ing remark may be made that passengers by that 
system cannot be made happy by the peanut 
boys passing through the cars ; this is a great 
loss that the benighted traveler knows not of ! 

There is another marked peculiarity attending 
upon European railway travel which seems to be 
settled in the very roots of European institutions, 
and is not by any means confined to the officials con- 
nected with railway trains. Reference is made 
to the power which sundry officials of the roads, 
as porters and guards, appear to possess over the 
accommodations afforded by the carriages in the 
way of granting individual favors to passengers. 
For want of a better term, I shall call this the 
" discretionary " power. For instance : Upon 
the windows of some of the compartments are 



RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 9 1 

pasted labels on which is the word " Smoking," 
and it is forbidden by law to smoke in compart- 
ments not so labeled. A passenger occupies a 
compartment alone, or perhaps there may be a 
company of gentlemen, or a man and his family, 
and it is desired to smoke. Upon this desire 
being made known to one of the porters, who are 
ordinarily very accommodating to the tourist, he 
will paste upon one of the windows the label 
" Smoking." This is now law, and the passen- 
ger can indulge his habit. 

Again: Suppose a passenger, or a company 
of passengers, desires an entire compartment 
during a given journey. Let him make known 
this wish to the gentlemanly guard — " If there 
be plenty of accommodation upon the train, it 
would be a special favor, which would be deeply 
appreciated " — and he will give the subject due 
investigation, and if the matter can be favorably 
arranged the compartment will not be profaned 
by the presence of strangers during the journey. 
The passenger who enjoys this courtesy of the 
above-mentioned official will certainly not be 
neglectful of a reciprocal etiquette toward him 
in the way of " solid " thanks, which may vary 
from a sixpence upward, according to the appre- 
ciation of the befriended traveler. Americans 
are justly criticized for being far too generous 
in these reciprocations, their mistake arising 
from not properly understanding the spirit of 
European institutions, and wrongly regarding 
these favors as the results of very different mo- 
tives from those above stated. 

The tourist will sometimes hear remarks con- 
cerning the ungentlemanly and gruff manner in 
which officials address passengers traveling upon 
third class tickets. I traveled very much by 



92 RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 

third class railway accommodations, and I never 
experienced anything but politeness and atten- 
tion during the whole time, except once, and 
that was at Callander, Scotland. A crowd of 
passengers was at the station to board the train, 
which appeared full when it arrived. I saw no 
vacant places in the third class compartments 
for my company, and I politely asked the guard 
for assistance, which he said he would render 
me, but immediately gave his services to some 
other passengers who had first class tickets. 
Upon my application to a station official for aid, 
he said that there was room if I could find it, 
but he gave me no further assistance. I thanked 
him, and then the train being signaled to start, 
we bounded into an overfull compartment, and 
so obtained passage. At a station beyond Cal- 
lander, a company of five or six persons, hold- 
ing first class tickets, were obliged to enter a 
third class compartment because there were not 
first class carriages sufficient to accommodate 
them. The railway company was inexcusable 
for not providing proper transportation for all 
persons holding tickets. 

Also, on this same occasion, I had the follow- 
ing experience, which may serve as a warning 
to others. I purchased tickets at a hotel in 
Glasgow for the round trip through the Tros- 
sachs, returning by Stirling. The tickets cost me 
at second class rates, and said " Good for sec- 
ond or third class passage." The agent of whom 
I bought them said that the tickets contracted 
that I must travel third class if there were no 
second class carriages on the train, but he assured 
me that the trains were always provided with 
second-class carriages. When I came to the 
train all the coaches were of the first and third 



RAILWAYS AND RAILWAY TRAVEL. 93 

classes. This seemed a downright swindle, for 
I had paid second class rates, but there was no 
redress at the time ; I must go third-class or 
stay. Had I bought my tickets at the booking- 
office of the station, instead of at the hotel, 
I would have paid only the third class rates, 
and have had the same accommodations for 
which I paid the second class rates. 

This may be as good a place as any to speak 
of the boat service, connected with railway ser- 
vice, across the English Channel and the German 
Ocean from England to the Continent. These 
waters are usually rough and " chopped " or 
" cross seas," and the boats are comparatively 
small. The voyage, which is from one and one- 
half to eight or ten hours by the best boats and 
routes, can be made ordinarily by day or by 
night, but a day voyage is recommended when 
the item of time is no important consideration. 
It is the practice of travelers, who are familiar 
with the sea, to secure berths by telegraphing in 
advance, when taking the night voyage. On all 
these routes, interpreters, so designated upon their 
caps, accompany the boats and railway trains. 
These and all other coasting and inland boats 
provide refreshments for those who desire them. 
Sometimes there is so great a rush for the tables 
immediately upon boarding the boat, if it be at 
meal time, that the uninitiated may find himself 
left to wait for the second table. 



94 RAILWAY STATIONS. 



XYIII.— Railway Stations. 

The depots — which are called "stations" in 
Scotland and England, "banhofs " in Germany, 
" staziones " in Italy, and "gares " or " stations " 
in France — are generally well ordered and finely 
appearing buildings, particularly in the larger 
towns and cities, being substantially constructed 
of stone, brick or iron, and often elaborately or- 
namented in their architecture, some of them 
having extensive glass roofs over the tracks. The 
country stations, especially in England, are low, 
semi-cottage buildings of brick or stone, and are 
rendered attractive in summer time by the pots 
of flowers upon the window ledges, and the small 
well-cared-for flower gardens at the sides ; some- 
times the name of a station is sown in delicate 
flowers amid a bed of green grass. 

The eating-rooms and waiting-rooms are 
divided into " first," " second," and " third " class, 
the furniture and the refreshments corresponding 
to the classes named. The ticket-offices, called 
" Booking-Offices " or " Bureaus," are designated 
in prominent letters, generally each class of tick- 
ets having its own special bureau. 

It should be recollected that in Europe passen- 
gers are "booked" to a place, instead of being 
" ticketed," as in the United States. The larger 
stations are so arranged that passengers are un- 
able to gain access to the cars until a few mo- 
ments before the departure of the train, when the 
gates are opened and the tickets inspected, as 
with us in many depots. So great care is taken 



RAILWAY STATIONS. 95 

in examining tickets at the stations, upon the 
starting of trains, that passengers are not often 
carried upon the wrong road, even though trains 
may be leaving at frequent intervals of the day, 
and in many different directions. The tourist 
will notice a " Lost-Property Office," and a "cloak- 
room" where, if desirous to free himself from his 
hand luggage, he can leave it by paying a small 
charge and receiving in return a receipt. In the 
British stations, with but few exceptions, a large 
clock is seen, whose face is of sufficient size and 
prominence to greet passengers who are entering 
or leaving the station ; on the Continent less care 
is shown in this regard. The stations of any 
pretensions are provided with news-stands, book- 
stalls, cheap-picture stands, and with telegraph 
offices very similar to those in the United States. 
Peddlers and caterers not being upon the trains, 
they are found in the stations. 

In Britain the station platforms are long and 
are built up in a substantial manner, as of solid 
stone, or of stone and earth, to such a height 
that only one short step is required to be attached 
to the carriages beneath the doors in order to 
step directly into the compartments. Here, also, 
passengers are not permitted to cross the track, 
unless by the elevated or by the " under-cross- 
ing " passage-ways which are provided where 
there are two tracks, and hence two platforms 
from which to* enter the carriages. 

On the Continent, especially in Germany, 
Switzerland, and France, the station platforms 
are low, as with us generally. 

The retiring rooms are not connected with the 
waiting-rooms as they usually are in this country, 
but they open directly from the station platforms. 
They are conspicuously marked, as, " For Gentle- 



96 RAILWAY STATIONS. 

men," " For Ladies," " Flir Herren," " Fiir 
Damen," " Pour Hommes," " Pour Dames " — 
frequently the " class " also is designated — and 
they are generally in charge of a man or a 
woman, who expects a small fee. With these are 
often united the lavatories, and when such is the 
case, there is sometimes a stated price — so indi- 
cated by a notice — for the use of these apart- 
ments. 

The names of the stations are placed conspicu- 
ously upon posts or fences, at the ends of the 
platforms, and on the stations themselves. The 
station guards call out the name of the station 
while the train is coming to a stop. The serious 
drawback in this is that the name being new to 
the traveler is so strangely pronounced to him 
that he can not understand it with any degree of 
certainty ; the only sure way is to watch for the 
name on the station. In some parts of the Con- 
tinent the names are less conspicuously placed — 
sometimes they are only upon the ends of the 
station buildings, after the manner of many of 
the stations in Massachusetts, on the line of the 
Albany and Boston road. 

Upon the arrival of a train at a station, the 
porters, who are always numerous, hasten to 
open the carriage doors, first selecting the first 
class compartments, and ask if there is any lug- 
gage to carry. Hacks, cabs, and omnibuses, 
abound to wait upon passengers, but there are no 
express delivery wagons. " It is advisable not to 
ask cabmen at a station about hotels, as they 
may possibly drive you to the wrong one." I do 
not recollect meeting a "hotel runner," still, he 
may flourish in some quarters of Europe. The 
cabs in some of the Continental cities are directed 
to their stands by an official, and passengers, thus 



RAILWAY STATIONS. 97 

desiring, are assigned to a cab by this officer, the 
driver simply obeying orders. This is particu- 
larly noticeable in Berlin and in Paris. To 
avoid the pitiless pestering of the porters and 
cab-men, or " cabbies " as they are generally 
termed, who are so very persistent in their 
desire to serve you, in some cities, it is a good 
plan for the tourist, upon getting out of his car- 
riage, to take his hand luggage and walk directly 
out of the station, passing all of those greedy 
fellows without a condescension. Having gained 
his freedom, the traveler can stop to inquire his 
way, in quiet and in peace. He may seek this 
information at his pleasure, of any policeman, of 
whom there are numbers at the stations. It is 
about fatal to a tourist if he once appear panic- 
stricken and uncertain in his wants among a 
body of idle porters or cabbies, because they will 
advise him to so many ways, and with so many 
words, and with so great vehemence, that he 
will lose the balance of his wits amid the din. 

I always found it safe, when entering a strange 
city, to take a cab to the hotel which I had pre- 
viously selected, and there ask the manager or 
hotel porter, to pay the driver and charge the 
account in my hotel bill. By this means I was 
saved exorbitant charges, particularly when in 
cities where the language was not familiar to me. 
In case of employing porters to carry luggage, 
this course will also be found advantageous. 

The stations contain many advertisements and 
notices, which are suggestive. In a second class 
eating-room at Perth, Scotland, the following 
was seen : " Porters, guards, and trainmen, must 
not be found in this room at train times." Some- 
times, but not often, is seen, " Beware of Pick- 
pockets." Passengers will frequently find it to 



98 RAILWAY STATIONS. 

their comfort and advantage to purchase lunches 
at the depots and take them on the train, especially 
if the ride is to carry the opportunity for obtain- 
ing meals beyond due hours. 

In the Islands, friends can meet people at the 
cars, in the stations, or accompany them thither, 
but on the Continent, generally, this meeting can 
not extend beyond the ante-rooms of the stations, 
unless by express permission from the chief of 
the station guards. 



RAILWAY LUGGAGE. 99 



XIX.— Railway Luggage. 

In caring for luggage there is perplexity. It is 
noticeable that passengers in Europe, except 
Americans, travel with much smaller pieces of 
luggage than do the people in this country — the 
trunks are not so large — there are many port- 
manteaus, sachels, traveling bags and shawl 
straps. This state of things is founded in the 
railway luggage system itself. The luggage is 
" lifted " at the stations by the porters, if it be 
more, or heavier, than the tourist wishes to handle. 
In Britain, if the pieces are not taken into the 
compartments, in which only the small hand 
pieces are allowed, the porters carry, or wheel 
upon a small hand truck, or upon a barrow, the 
pieces to an officer, who determines if there be 
any excess weight, and then pastes upon the 
trunk a coarse paper label containing the name 
of the station to which the passenger is booked, 
as shown by his ticket, the railway company 
giving no check or receipt. The porter now 
places this luggage in the "luggage van" 
which is assigned to carry it to that given 
station along the route. The passenger should 
not neglect to assure himself by personal in- 
spection, that it is in the proper van, and he 
should carefully note the number which is 
painted upon the van, in order to facilitate his 
readily finding it when he shall have reached 
the termination of his journey. He pays the 
porter from three pence upwards for each piece 
of luggage handled, depending upon the amount 



IOO RAILWAY LUGGAGE. 

of service rendered — it is best to hand the porter 
his fees, without asking questions. At its desti- 
nation, the officials take it out of the van and 
place it upon the platform, where the owner 
must claim it. If it should be unclaimed, it will 
be placed in the room designated " Left Lug- 
gage," where it can be found. Luggage should 
always be very fully and legibly marked with the 
owner's name and address. 

Another way of transporting luggage is by a 
freight-accommodation train, called a "goods 
train," or "luggage train." The tourist, after 
carefully and distinctly labeling or " tagging " 
his trunk, can arrange with the hotel porter to 
deliver it at the station, where it will be put upon 
the goods train, and will be safely delivered at 
the hotel or other place to which it is destined. 
If it be prepaid and addressed to a hotel, this 
insures a bed on the passenger's arrival, and 
saves trouble and expense ; or the hotel propri- 
etor may be written to receive it and to pay the 
charges for transportation, which are moderate. 
This is a convenient way to manage with a 
trunk, in order to be freed from it when travel- 
ing on detour excursions. In Britain these goods 
trains are comparatively rapid, but on the Con- 
tinent a tourist may wait weeks for his luggage 
by these trains. When rapid transportation is 
wished, always send goods by express train, even 
in Britain. 

Still another mode of managing luggage is 
the following, called " registration," which is vir- 
tually our checking system, with receipts instead 
of checks, and a careful weighing of all luggage. 
At the station the tourist expresses his wish to 
register his trunk to a given city ; the porter will 
take it to a scales-stand, where an officer will 



RAILWAY LUGGAGE. IOI 

weigh it, and will notify the " luggage-bureau 
agent," who may or may not be the ticket clerk, 
of the amount of it ; he will compute the charge 
for excess luggage, if any, which the owner will 
pay and receive a receipt for his trunk ; a label 
is pasted upon the trunk, and it is ready for the 
train. 

In special reference to luggage on the Conti- 
nent, the tourist should heed the injunction that 
he register all of his pieces, except those small 
ones which he keeps in his compartment, and pro- 
cure a receipt before starting, even if there be no 
charge made and no excess weight, and that he 
carefully keep this receipt, as without it he can- 
not obtain his luggage. Baggage once started, 
for which a receipt has been given, cannot be 
delivered to the owner until it has reached its 
destination, even though it be on the same train 
with him. It sometimes happens that unregis- 
tered luggage will start in the same train with 
its owner, but will be delayed on the route until 
a later train. Especially is this so on the mail 
trains of the through services between London 
and many of the principal cities of the Conti- 
nent, as it may be detained at the landing port 
on account of want of time for the customs ex- 
amination. This source of annoyance is pre- 
vented by registration, as only registered lug- 
gage is entirely cared for by the officials, in 
transferring it from line to line, and at places 
where the customs officers inspect it, the owner 
simply being present to open it for examina- 
tion. If it be not registered he must look after it 
at all of these stations, which is a source of end- 
less perplexity to the American tourist. It is 
far safer for a traveler to keep his luggage on 
the same train with himself, registering it, than 



102 RAILWAY LUGGAGE. 

to send it by another train, particularly when 
traveling on the Continent, if he would be spared 
vexatious delays and expenses. 

A tourist should make it a point of business 
to be at the station in early season, especially 
if he has luggage to be put upon the train, and, 
if it is to be registered, the porter should be 
encouraged to attend to it at once. It may hap- 
pen that there are a number of pieces ahead of 
his to be weighed, in which case he must pa- 
tiently await his turn, unless his porter volun- 
teers to slide his trunk into the scales before the 
others, in which event the tourist will find it to 
his own interest to offer no question as to the 
methods of the porter — porters are so queer ! To 
avoid these possible delays, let the traveler be at 
the station in ample time, and then give vigorous 
personal attention to his own luggage, and him- 
self see it properly disposed of in the proper van. 



COACHES AND DILIGENCES. 103 



XX.— Coaches and Diligences. 

In the Scottish Highlands, the English Lake 
District, and Switzerland, the tourist travels much 
by coach, or diligence, as it is called on the Con- 
tinent. The English coach is a royal establish- 
ment ; it is a large, heavy, strong, open or closed 
four-wheeled wagon, and is drawn by two, four 
or six horses. In the Lake District, running be- 
tween Ulleswater and Windermere, were closed 
coaches, each drawn by four horses, two abreast. 
The passengers were divided, some being inside 
the coach, the rest upon the top of the box, which 
was provided with seats over its whole extent. 
In Scotland, one of the high open coaches from 
Ballachulish to Glencoe was drawn by five horses, 
three abreast in the lead. The seats, seven in 
number, extended across the coach, four of them 
facing forward and three backward, and each seat 
holding five persons, the passengers mounting by 
a long ladder. The driver and conductor were 
dressed in livery of Queen's scarlet. The rate of 
speed was lively, all that could be desired. All 
the drivers pride themselves in their skill at 
cracking their long whip-lashes with great flour- 
ishes and loud reports, and with such unerring 
aim that they could annihilate a fly upon the left 
or right ear of the leaders in the team without 
letting the horses know that anything had hap- 
pened, except that the fly had ceased to sting. 

The Swiss diligence, drawn usually by four 
horses, somewhat resembles the English coach in 
its external appearance. It contains three com- 



104 COACHES AND DILIGENCES. 

partments, the coupe, or forward portion, consist- 
ing of one seat, which holds three persons, and in 
the front and at the sides has glass windows ; the 
interieur, or middle division, which has two seats 
for six persons ; the rotonde, or rear, is entered 
by doors behind, and accommodates six passen- 
gers. On the roof, over the coupe, is the coach- 
man's seat, behind which is the banquette, a seat 
for three persons. The luggage is placed on the 
top, back of the banquette. There is another 
form of the Swiss diligence which has the coupe 
and the coachman's seat, but the interieur and 
the rotonde are wanting, the lower part of the 
coach being used for luggage, while the whole 
top, above the luggage, is provided with seats 
much like the Glencoe coach above described, 
only there is a light awning over the passengers 
to shield them against the sun. This form of 
diligence is very enjoyable, being strong, airy 
and sightly. Passengers must apply at the dili- 
gence office that they may be booked, and, in the 
order of their application, select their seats, which 
are all numbered, and for which receipts should 
be taken in order to save disputes about them 
afterward. These diligences have each its driver, 
who tends his team solely, and its conductor, 
who also ' ; brakes " the establishment when going 
down hills. The drivers are skillful Jehus, filling 
the air when coming into town with innumerable 
genuflexions and pop-gun explosions from the 
cracker ; indeed, they are so expert at this that it 
seems as if they would crack the day of doom, 
and the passengers often wish that doom would 
crack .... the driver ! 

Tourists new in the experience will soon 
discover that they must not be idle at stations 
where they leave trains or boats for coaches, if 



COACHES AND DILIGENCES. 105 

they would not be put off with the least desirable 
seats. They will find a general rushing for the 
coach; the novitiate must also hasten and throw 
his piece of luggage up into a seat to secure it 
until he can ascend, if indeed, even though he 
be first at the coach, he be not then dismayed to 
find all the desirable seats already engaged. In the 
route through the Trossachs and in the Lake 
District this surely is a thing to note. 

It may not be out of place here to remark 
that livery stables are called " Posting Estab- 
lishments." Among the kinds of vehicles in 
Britain there are the carriage, the dog-cart, the 
drag, and the wagonette. In Ireland is the jaunt- 
ing-car. On the Continent are the drosky, the 
voiture, the carriage and the wagonette. The 
wagon roads in Europe are most excellent, being 
smooth and hard, after McAdam. 



I06 STUDYING THE COUNTRY. 



XXI.— Studying the Country. 

The American tourist, approaching the shores 
of Europe for the first time, will be impressed 
strangely with the appearance of the land ; 
he will be disappointed, in all probability, and 
very naturally ; the view will want some of the 
largeness of islands, of hills, and of forests, which 
his imagination had pictured to him, probably 
for no reason except that it is Europe ; the shores, 
even the bluffs and highlands, will seem low, 
partly because of their unappreciated distances, 
partly on account of the general barrenness or 
nakedness of the hills, partly by reason of the 
absence of forests, and partly in that the build- 
ings which may be in sight, if not a city or town, 
appear low and few in number ; in addition to 
these, the colors of the landscape, especially in 
summer time, are of fresh, soft, yellowish-greens 
which evidently have the effect of adding to the 
notion of lowness and strangeness. Each 
country has its own characteristics. The High- 
lands of Scotland are in general high-relief. 
Although Ben Nevis, the highest point in Great 
Britain, reaches up only 4,406 feet, the Bens, or 
mountains, rise up in long, bold, naked, green 
and heather-purple-and-brown colored elevations, 
sometimes broken into abrupt bluffs more or less 
rugged, oftener continuous for long miles which 
are valuable as " sheep marches," sometimes 
losing themselves in muirs or in straths, some- 
times suddenly cut in twain by lochs, or by glens 
which are deepened in solitude by ominous tarns, 



STUDYING THE COUNTRY. 107 

occasionally sloping down and out into vast 
level acres of fine arable land, as at Inverness. 

The mountains in Switzerland are higher; 
Mont Blanc, lifting its bold, broad, snow-white 
head sublimely upwards into the misty air nearly 
sixteen thousand feet ; the tops of the mount- 
ains are peaks, rough, jagged, standing in the 
loftiness of their isolated grandeur, holding their 
everlasting watch over the deep ravines, the rush- 
ing cataracts, the roadways as ribbons for nar- 
rowness, the shepherd flocks as mere white 
specks upon the steeps for distance. All these 
are wards of those noble mountain-tops that 
listen, amid their eternal solitudes, to the echoes of 
the shepherd horn as its tones float deviously 
upward among the clouds amidst which rest the 
snows, which are ever deepening and yet never 
satisfying to the ponderous glacier and the 
crashing avalanche. The Jungfrau, as seen from 
Berne, sixty miles distant, and Mont Blanc, as 
seen from Geneva, forty-five miles away, are 
views that are never to be forgotten for their 
sublime, though mute language to the sympa- 
thetic tourist. The lofty passes, the rushing 
streams, the embosomed lakes with their crystal- 
clear waters, the steep ascents, all these are so 
many new revelations to the traveler among the 
Alps. 

Returning again to the Highlands, they may 
be summed up in this : That the tourist will 
leave them with the wish that they were higher. 
The waterfalls seem small, often mere brooklet- 
dashes, to an American who has seen our own. 
The inland lochs are beautiful quiet sheets of 
water which rest among the hills, reflecting the 
landscapes as do mirrors. The buildings are 
few, except at centres. Some of the stations 



108 STUDYING THE COUNTRY. 

and landings consist of one long name of sound- 
ing import, and one small hotel standing solitary 
in the mountain loneliness. Quite occasionally 
the tourist suddenly comes in sight of some ruined 
castle or palace upon which he brings his glass, 
half expecting to see some of its ancient heroes 
looking out over the ruined walls, and he turns 
him away sorrowful, because he sees them not. 
He often gazes far up an historic glen, and over 
the shore-islands, and into the caves, and would 
not be astonished to behold rushing forth the 
Fingals, and the Ossians, and the Clans 
in full array, or the stag and hound 
down the glens, or the Lady standing on 
the shore of the Isle, or the Lords of the Isles 
leading forth their retainers. Sir Walter Scott 
has thrown so deep a glamour of romance, inter- 
woven with real history, over his native land 
that the tourist has hard work to rid himself of 
the notion of the fiction in the case; the romantic 
becomes the more real. 

England is one vast farm, as also is the Low- 
land country of Scotland. In England, the 
fields are often small, sometimes large ; the 
fences of stone, of wire, of occasional panel, and 
of abundant hedges, run any and all ways, 
nearly, except at right angles and parallel to 
each other ; the larger trees growing at indefinite 
intervals ; the cattle, some with horns, and some 
without ; the flocks of sheep ; the many horses ; 
the narrow, retiring roads, bordered by hedges; 
the high state of tillage ; the northern, or Lake 
District, romantic as well as picturesque in its 
hills, drives, low mountains, placid lakes, old 
towns, ancient towers, and historic associations; 
the ruined cathedrals and castles, the quaint 
thatch roof cottages, the stately mansions 



STUDYING THE COUNTRY. 109 

resting amidst the policies ; the young forests ; 
all these lend a charm to the English landscape 
which is often rightly called the garden. 

France with her landscape which is inlined by 
her chalky-white roads, without fences ; which 
includes extensive forests ; which is more pro- 
nounced in its perspective effects from the 
frequent rows of tall poplars ; which includes 
hedge-rows for fences, yet not over many of them; 
which contains strong reliefs of the bordering 
mountain ranges ; which shows hills of chalk, 
whole acres and miles of it ; which presents 
innumerable fields of vine-clad slopes ; France, 
with all this diversity of scene in her landscape, 
though highly attractive, is yet monotonous. 

Holland has her landscape of lowlands, with 
the many narrow and few wide canals, which 
constitute the fences between the fields upon 
which feed the sheep and cattle — with the small 
vessels riding up from the ocean in the larger 
canals, high above the fields, and alongside of 
the houses situated far inland — with the willows 
growing upon the banks of the canals, to stay 
them from being washed away — with her hun- 
dreds of windmills whose arms make alive the 
air with weird gnome-like gesticulations — with 
rows of trees somewhat tall, bordering an occa- 
sional road — with beautiful farms without canals, 
in some of its districts — with beautiful cities 
here and there, having streets whose cen- 
ters are canals, bordered on both sides with 
roadwa3 r s, which are still widened by narrow 
sidewalks — in short, with almost everything to 
emphasize the literal fact that the " Dutch have 
conquered Holland," with all this level expanse 
of landscape, yet it is charming and alive with 
quaint variety. 



IIO STUDYING THE COUNTRY. 

Without attempting more in detail, it may 
suffice to say in general, that all the forests in 
Central Europe are planted, and are hence 
young, vigorous, and uniform, in the same forest, 
in the size of the trees — that the immense vine- 
covered slopes in the Rhine district, and 
the Rhine itself, with its pontoon bridges and 
flying-ferries, give a picturesque effect — and that 
the fields in Germany still show the old custom 
of rotation of crops which are planted in long 
narrow strips, situated side by side, with no inter- 
vening fences, the divisions simply marked by 
stone posts at the ends of the lots. The country 
in Europe is peculiar, as compared to American 
landscapes, in this, that it is more rich in those 
elements which enter into the demands of the land- 
scape painter — the colors, the contours, the ex- 
tents, the decay attending an old civilization, 
rather than the decay of unsubdued wilderness, 
the general configuration of the hills and valleys, 
all these serve Art with an abundance of avail- 
able materials which the gifted seize and trans- 
fer to immortal canvas. 

The tourist in traveling the higher mountain 
lands needs his guide, his supply of food which 
his guide will carry, his long and strong staff, his 
Claude Lorraine mirror, his substantial clothing, 
and an ample stock of appetite, physical endur- 
ance, and patience. 



INSTITUTION OF FEEING. Ill 



XXII.— Institution of Feeing. 

Feeing is an institution of itself in Europe. 
The American tourist runs against it constantly, 
feeling greatly annoyed by it, and well he may, 
for its unpleasant features alone come most 
prominently within his daily experience — indeed, 
it is new to him, for he has not given it thought 
enough from his simple hearsay knowledge of 
it, to discern that there is but comparatively little 
like it, as an institution, in his own country. It 
is probable that the institution of fees was intro- 
duced into the Northern and Central countries of 
Europe by the Romans, and that it also took 
activity from the feudal system. In Rome the 
lawyers never charged clients for their legal ser- 
vices, they were above it, they labored for the 
honor and influence which might come from their 
services — they received gratuities, however, from 
their clients, and laws were made forbidding 
the accepting of gratuities which exceeded a 
specified sum. With certain modifications for 
special classes of the lesser ranks of the legal 
profession, the spirit of this old Roman custom 
and law is still observed, and is powerful in Eng- 
land, Scotland, and Paris, at the present time. 

The same customs and laws are in vogue, 
although with a less degree of observance, in the 
profession of medicine in Britain, and possibly 
also in some portions of the Continent. This 
spirit and practice are also prominent to-day in 
the United States, in the matter of marriage fees, 



112 INSTITUTION OF FEEING. 

and of clergymens' fees for conducting funeral 
and baptismal services. 

The theory upon which these practices are sus- 
tained is, that the professional gentleman should 
be entirely independent of any consideration for 
services, in order that he shall not be under any 
bias from a stipulated fee, either in medicine or 
in law. It is held that much of the honorable 
reputation of the Bar and the Bench in Europe, 
is due solely to the independence which the 
absence of any expectation of certain fees has 
given to the profession. 

The spirit of the feudal system was authority 
and obedience to authority. The lords exercised 
authority in peremptory commands — they would 
brook no demand except from those who had the 
right to make the demand — they were gentlemen 
with a high sense of honor according to the code 
then in force, and they would not be dictated to 
as to the value of services rendered by a subor- 
dinate — they set their own estimate upon the 
value of the services accepted by them — they 
would have been insulted at the suggestion from 
an inferior, relative to the value of any given 
favor. The subordinates, in tern, would not at- 
tempt to name a sum for favors bestowed by 
by them, they left the whole matter to the gener- 
osity of the chief — they gave their services and 
said nothing, but accepted with thanks whatso- 
ever was handed them. The gentlemen prided 
themselves upon being liberal to subordinates 
for favors bestowed. 

Servants were hired at the fairs, until very 
recently, by giving them a gratuity, which by 
their accepting it, bound the bargain between 
master and help. The many fair-days, and some 
of the holidays at the present time, are not so 



INSTITUTION OF FEEING. 113 

much a matter of positive law, as they are de- 
mands by the servants and laboring classes that 
they be allowed these days as gratuities which 
the wealthy and nobility should grant them. 
These are instances, on an extended scale, in 
which the spirit of the institution of feeing 
manifests itself as a strong power in European 
society. Hence, in general terms it may be said 
that European society is permeated, literally 
honey-combed, with the various phases of the 
spirit of feeing, and of the custom of giving 
gratuities. Positive laws have gradually come 
into being for regulating the amount of the 
gratuities, and have thus converted many of 
those voluntary fees into stipulated legal dues, 
in order that justice for all parties should be 
better established. But the spirit of a great 
people, especially in Europe, is tenacious of its 
ancient states, and is jealous of its former cus- 
toms. Hence it is that the spirit of feeing, as an 
institution, is still in full vigor, almost in its 
pristine glory, all through society, even though 
statute law has given to it a partial form and 
direction; it often asserts its claims and considers 
itself in legitimate activity whenever it can 
return in practice to its former estate of giving 
and receiving, or of demanding and compelling. 
The law now stands guard against extortion 
and fraud, but not against the attempts at them 
which the cupidity of human nature and the old 
institutions stimulate. Between these powers 
the conscience of the average man will step 
into a shaded corner in the presence of the re- 
spected customs of his honorable ancestors. 
Hence, in Europe to-day, fees are offered and 
are received, not as bribes, but as legitimate 
transactions in full conformity with the genius of 



114 INSTITUTION OF FEEING. 

their institutions. It is undoubtedly true that 
the more enlightened of European statesmen 
realize the evils of the institution, and are hoping 
as well as laboring for the suppression of it, as is 
evidenced in enacting laws and in putting up 
public notices which strictly forbid the accepting 
of fees in certain specified instances. 

All the foregoing being assumed, the question 
arises, particularly to an American who is entirely 
unacquainted with such an institution, what is 
duty in the matter when traveling in Europe. 
To answer this is not my province, except as 
shall appear in the following : The tourist 
should first inform himself as well as possible 
about the law which relates to his own interests, 
as cab fares and the like. He should then care- 
fully study what are the customs of the people 
concerning the things which come within the 
range of his own necessary experience. A good 
business American much prefers to know at once 
exactly what any given service is to cost him ; 
then he can accept or reject the offer ; then he 
can estimate his business transactions in a busi- 
ness manner ; it is all open dealing. Not being 
accustomed to conduct affairs upon any other 
basis, having no other business education, he is 
placed hors de combat when he comes into the pres- 
ence of the system of feeing ; his pride contends 
with his business judgment ; he despises mean- 
ness and penuriousness ; he would be favorably 
regarded by the foreigners among whom he trav- 
els ; he dislikes to confess necessary economy ; 
the servants catch his case and play upon his 
pride and his generosity and his fear in order to 
increase their own gains. Under all these cir- 
cumstances he knows not what to do, nor how 
much to give, when a servant says to him, " The 



INSTITUTION OF FEEING. II5 

gentleman's pleasure," and touches his hat to 
him so politely. Foreigners say to Americans 
that they are spoiling servants in Europe by over- 
feeing them, and that the servants of all grades 
are fast coming to regard American travelers as 
very desirable for promiscuous and wholesale 
plunder. 

As an American, I utter my protest against 
this, and ask my fellow-countrymen to guard 
against adding to this tendency to extortion and 
demoralization. 

It is often a delicate query with the tourist how 
much to give servants and guides, these " func- 
tionaries that serve the public and must be paid 
by the public." In this dilemma a safe way is to 
put the case to some intelligent gentleman who 
is at hand ; ask of him the favor to inform you of 
the custom and liberality in the case. If this 
be put in a proper spirit of candor the tourist 
will not be dishonorably dealt with. It will soon 
appear that threepence, or sixpence, or a shilling, 
is a good fee where the tourist had thought of 
double the amount. A porter carries your trunk 
to the depot, he will be content with a shilling ; 
he lifts your trunk from a carriage into the depot, 
he will be content with threepence or a six- 
pence ; he carries your trunk up to your room 
and brings it down again, he will be content 
with a sixpence or a little more. The cab-drivers 
in Paris claim so much for the regular fare and a 
few sous as an extra or " pour boire." 

The effect of the fee upon the servant is hap- 
pily described by Hawthorne in his " Notes on 
England " : " At an English hotel, the traveler 
feels as if everybody, from the landlord down- 
ward, united in a joint and individual purpose to 
fleece him, because all the attendants who come 



Il6 INSTITUTION OF FEEING. 

in contact with him are to be separately consid- 
ered. So, after paying, in the first instance, a 
very heavy bill for what would seem to cover the 
whole indebtedness, there remain divers dues 
still to be paid, to no trifling amount, to the land- 
lord's servants — dues not to be ascertained, and 
which you can never know whether you have 
properly satisfied. You can know, perhaps, when 
you have less than satisfied them by the aspect 
of the waiter, which I wish I could describe — not 
disrespectful in the slightest degree, but a look of 
profound surprise, a gaze at the offered coin 
(which he nevertheless pockets) as if he did not 
see it, or did not know it, or could not believe his 
eyesight ; all this, however, with the most quiet 
forbearance, a Christian-like non-recognition of 
an unmerited wrong and insult ; and finally, all 
in a moment's space indeed, he quits you and 
goes about his other business. If you have given 
him too much, you are made sensible of your 
folly by the extra amount of his gratitude, and 
the bows with -which he salutes you from the 
doorstep. Generally, you cannot very decidedly 
say whether you have been right or wrong, but 
in almost all cases you decidedly feel that you 
have been fleeced." 

The ordinary services in your room at the ho- 
tel and attention at the table are not subjects for 
fees, which are only for extra services. Hence, 
tourists should exercise much caution in making 
extra demands upon servants, if they would es- 
cape the obligation for fees. If the tourist has 
only light hand-luggage he can carry it to his 
room himself. This will cut off expectations for 
fees. If a guide forces himself upon your atten- 
tion, as he often will, tell him if he goes with you 
he must do it without fee, simply for the " honor 



INSTITUTION OF FEEINO. I 17 

of enjoying your company," and then hold to the 
bargain. Be very careful about making what 
may be called half-bargains and then not finish- 
ing them, for it will be claimed that you agreed 
to do thus and so in order to compel pay from 
you. Instances of this are not rare. 

It is curious to observe the disposition of the 
servants who are given fees. Give a porter in 
Paris a small fee for lifting a trunk to its desti- 
nation, and he will hold it in his open hand right 
before you, and probably will give you to under- 
stand in some way that he is a deeply injured per- 
son and that you are a miser. Give a porter in 
London the same and he will probably take it 
in his closed hand and quickly slide it into his 
pocket without looking at it, and will thank you 
so politely that you will possibly feel abashed 
at the smallness of it. The Parisian claims his 
fee as a right, the Londoner accepts it as a 
gratuity. 

The way in which some large buildings can be 
visited is a study. The tourist pays an admission 
fee ; he goes to such a place ; then he inspects 
another department, under another guide, for an 
extra fee. In time he gets through with the 
whole — building, guides and fees. Tourists so 
disposed can often gain access to forbidden 
rooms, and can open rusty doors, and can secure 
special favors, which other means fail to com- 
mand from servants and officials, by means of 
fees timely introduced. 



Il8 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 



XXIII.— Spirit of the Tourist. 

Before starting on a visit to Europe, the tourist 
should have a clear idea concerning what he 
proposes to accomplish, for he should not travel 
in uncertainty of purposes. If he goes for no one 
special object, but to note what he may, he should 
classify his purposed observations in some good 
order, so as not to enter upon his tour without 
some general lines about which to associate the 
individual objects that shall pass his view ; it 
will be far better to have a poor classification 
than none. For instance, under the idea of 
general observations, suppose the tourist arrange 
something like the following classification : 
Hotels ; the poorer classes of people ; the wealth- 
ier classes ; forms of government ; railways ; 
steamboats ; methods of doing business ; natural 
scenery; fine art; industrial art; comforts of life, 
the so-called luxuries ; amusements ; wages for 
labor; state of education ; state of religion ; 
street scenes ; holiday scenes, and the like. With 
some such classification, every thing seen will 
have some line of association, and travel will be 
far more profitable. Aimless travel is compli- 
mentary neither to the human intellect nor to 
the works of the Creator. 

The tourist should have well-established habits 
of observation, by which is meant that he should 
have the vigorous and normal use of his senses 
which should be constantly on the alert for what- 
ever new impressions may chance along. To 
travel in a strange country amid ever-passing 



SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 119 

novel scenes, is to be constantly subject to 
marked and sudden impressions, thoughts and 
feelings, which arise because the scenes beheld 
are unfamiliar. These new ideas are precisely 
the measure of the difference between what is 
familiar and what is strange. The value of 
travel is to be estimated, not by the number of 
things in the outer world that have passed before 
one's observation, but by the number and impor- 
tance of the new thoughts, new emotions, new 
relations and expansions of former views, which 
spring up and are noted within the soul of the 
traveler. The only place to search for a record 
of the value of travel is within one's own sub- 
jective self, one's own intellect and heart. 

The importance that should be attached to 
anything observed by the tourist is not so much 
what the object is in itself, as what it is to him, 
to his own mind. To the end that the highest 
advantage may be derived from a tour in a 
strange land, the traveler should carry to the 
scenes of his visit as much information of these 
places, both general and special, as he may be 
able to command, because the more he takes with 
him to any given scene the more will the view 
yield to him in- return. Yet on this point it is 
suggested that the common practice of viewing 
objects of interest simply through the medium of 
guide books is not a profitable one, for they point 
out the facts relating to a place, the main facts 
that can be readily grasped — beyond these the 
books are speechless. They should be put aside, 
out of mind almost, and the objects themselves 
in all of their spirit, their old history, their life, 
should be sought, and to the greatest extent 
possible, comprehended. The intellect and 
emotions of the tourist should be put into active 



120 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 

sympathy with the scenes amidst which he travels; 
the records of the visit should be made in the 
tourist's own mind ; he should read within him- 
self the narrative or the description which the 
outside scenes suggest. This is not sentimental- 
ism, which is nothing but an artificial and over- 
stimulated excitement of a weak intellect, and of 
a sickly, emotional being; rather is it the worthy 
feeling of the nobility of the human soul seeking 
to interpret the true spirit of the scene beheld. 
To secure this high purpose, the tourist must 
approach every new object in a state of mind 
which is neutral as to opinions and expectations, 
but which is powerfully active in its susceptibility 
for receiving impressions ; the tourist should 
present himself before his object of study with 
no anticipation other than that he expects to be 
impressed in some way, but in what particular 
manner impressed must await experience. By 
this course he will scarcely ever be disappointed 
at beholding new objects, for disappointment is 
simply a consciousness that the object seen differs 
from the idea of it which had been previously 
formed in his mind. Who is to blame for this ? 
Surely not the object, not this castle, this ruin, 
this mountain. Tourists are too prone to assume 
themselves the creators of the things they 
propose to inspect, and then grumble at the 
actual creations because the designer did not 
make them according to the ideas which they 
now bring. What a grand panoramic and ka- 
leidoscopic state of mobility would the world daily 
be in ! This hill would be higher, lower, greener, 
more wooded, less wooded, flatter, more peaked, 
all at the same time in order to meet the views of 
any given company of travelers. The only pos- 
sible way in which objects can accommodate 



SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 121 

themselves easily to the tourist is, through the 
powers of adaptibility and susceptibility of his 
own being. The simple rule is, that the tourist 
must carry himself along in that common sense 
manner before mentioned ; to expect nothing 
except to be impressed, and be vigilant to mark 
those impressions. To travel in this state of 
mind brings happiness and profit at all times ; it 
exorcises censoriousness, it readily adapts itself 
to changing circumstances, it makes the best of 
all experiences, and puts a cheerful face upon 
the occasional delays, attempts at extortion, 
poor meals, rainy weather, and accidents gener- 
ally, which are apt to occasion a disarrangement 
of a daily programme. It is worth repeating 
with emphasis, that a traveler takes knowledge 
away with him only as he brings intelligence 
along with him to his observations. 

The tourist is harmed for profitable traveling 
if he is in any state of bias or of prejudice, con- 
cerning what he sees. The habit of looking at 
the Old World with a mind strongly prejudiced 
against it, gives only partial knowledge of what 
is actually seen. To magnify everything Ameri- 
can is equally weak, and in bad taste. To draw 
comparisons upon partial and uncertain observa- 
tions is unwise and misleading ; it is pedantic. 
As an American, I protest against two states of 
mind that are sometimes met in my countrymen 
abroad. The first is, that complaining and ego- 
tistical spirit which degrades everything in Europe 
as so much poorer, more uncomfortable, more 
miserable, than in the United States ; the trees 
are not as high, the mountains are not so lofty, 
the water is not so good to drink, the weather is 
horrible, "the salmon steak is horrid," " this is 
not as good as it is with us in America !" The 



122 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 

second is, that fawning, sickly, sentimental spirit, 
which is willing to sacrifice everything American 
to a dishonorable position alongside of things 
European. A little incident or two will illustrate 
this point. An American, a young man, gradu- 
ated from one of our colleges, was traveling in 
the Highlands in Scotland upon the journey 
with us. He was descanting to a European gen- 
tleman upon the general superiority of Europe 
over America. The conversation turned upon 
the climate and its effect upon the system; the 
young man ventured the assertion that nearly all 
Americans " talked through the nose," because 
the climate is so unhealthful, so subject to change, 
so damp ; and then so dry. Another American 
gentleman, a physician, standing hard by, here 
put in the remark that the true reason for this 
peculiarity of the Americans is not that given, 
but this : " The weather is so very cold during 
the winters that the noses freeze tight up, and 
the summers are not warm enough to thaw them 
out again." At another time this young man 
was explaining to his foreign auditor that he 
himself was the only true American in that com- 
pany, which consisted of some fifteen or twenty 
Americans from various parts of the United 
States ; that all the rest were from America, it 
was true, but that they were only the progeny of 
the riff-raff, which years ago floated over to 
America from Europe. The doctor above refer- 
red to was an attentive listener. A short time 
afterwards, the aforesaid foreign gentleman came 
up to him and asked if what the young man had 
said of this party were true ; and further asked : 
" Is he himself an American ?" Said the doctor : 
" I am sorry to say that he is ; but he is of that 
type which we, in America, call the ass !" Said 



SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 1 23 

the foreigner : " An ass, sir ! He is a damn 
fool, sir !" We all mentally thanked the last 
speaker for acting as spokesman for our party. 

It is truly humiliating to an American traveler 
to find, as he so often does among the people of 
Europe, such crude notions existing in regard to 
America ; how those things which are purely fan- 
tastical with us, and exceptional and very rare at 
that, form the staples of knowledge with them. 
For instance, a gentleman, apparently well read 
and scholarly, asked me about the wagons and 
carriages in the United States ; if the chief vehi- 
cle with us is not the " buck-board, which must 
be a big thing !" " Then in winter you must 
have gay times, traveling in your sleighs driven 
over the snow by sails hoisted to the wind — it 
must be a rum thing !" '* I suppose that in New 
York City it is not safe for any one to stop at. 
the hotels because of the robberies committed 
there." " I think New York must be a very 
unsafe place, for so many people are stolen from 
its streets, in the day time, too." 

On another occasion, my guide, a young Scotch- 
man, about twenty-two or three years old, and a 
bright fellow withal, educated in the public 
schools of the country, said to me on the return 
journey down Ben Nevis, " I suppose you would 
not dare to travel in this way in America, it would 
not be safe ?" We were alone, and it was about 
eight o'clock in the afternoon of a July day, and 
no indication of darkness about us. I, somewhat 
astonished, asked him why. " Because of being 
robbed," said he. " I suppose nearly everybody 
there goes armed, and it is dangerous for a 
stranger to be alone in such places with guides, 
as we are." 

These are illustrations of the crooked knowl- 



124 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 

edge which " straightens out " so many foreigners 
when they once come here and observe for them- 
selves. We laugh at it and ridicule it, but still 
this lamentable ignorance is a solemn fact. The 
trouble lies in this, that general inferences are 
drawn from only a few incidents or facts, and 
these facts are exceptional and not in any way 
truly representative. Another element is this, 
that highly-colored, sensational, cock-and-bull 
stories, are the ones which are most taking, 
longest remembered, and most impressive to the 
mass of mind. Tourists who only half see and 
understand what is observed in traveling are so 
often those who feel free to call upon their imag- 
inations for whatever facts they may not have 
seen, may have misunderstood, or may want. 

Americans will return from foreign travel 
many times with their minds filled with nothing 
but the monstrosities of foreign countries ; it is 
truly a monstrous state of things to return 
home with only this rude mind and this except- 
ional and unrepresentative knowledge. Travelers 
should honor their own intellects and hearts 
more than herein appears in too many cases. 

The tourist ought to have with him a small 
pocket blank-book, in which to jot down briefly, 
as occasions pass, his fleeting impressions and 
thoughts, and also the suggestions which he may 
hear, and the notes of scenes visited. This can be 
done unobtrusively, modestly, and yet fully. 
These notes can afterwards be extended from 
memory. Impressions once past are liable to be 
lost ; hence, note them at the time when they 
are fresh. This work is not an easy task, unless 
the habit of doing it be fixed and the determina- 
tion positive; without these notes very much of the 
most profitable experience of a tour is forever 



SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 1 25 

lost. For the facts relating to places, their 
history and the like, trust the guide books to 
help ; do not note aught of those matters. 
Keep the note-book as a record of subjective 
experiences in great part, as well as of little 
incidents of daily travel, which the books cannot 
give. These two questions should be constantly 
present to the mind of the tourist, viz : How 
much do I know of this just witnessed ? and 
how much can I communicate to those whom I 
may meet and who may desire information about 
what I have witnessed ? 

A tourist should be able to sketch rapidly 
with a pencil, even if it be only roughly done. 
Many scenes can never be so truly and character- 
istically portrayed as by a pencil sketch. Many views 
are caught only while passing by upon the cars, 
boat, or coach. A few strokes in a small pocket 
sketch-book will bring out the character of the 
scene in after years. In addition to sketching, 
there are times when water-colors could be used 
to great advantage in matching delicate colors 
which can not be easily recalled. A small and 
cheap assortment will suffice, together with a 
hair pencil. The colors can be mixed very 
readily and laid on a paper and thus retained. 
This is especially valuable upon boat excursions 
where the tourist easily finds a seat at a table, 
and where the passage by a scene is not so rapid 
as to be out of sight before the colors can be 
prepared and the comparison made. 

An American will be impressed with the gen- 
eral quietness of the people 'in Europe — their 
low conversation at hotels, in dining- saloons, in 
parlors, in the stations, on the steamboats, and in 
the streets of the cities. While there is a cease- 



126 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 

less rush, hurry and skurry, yet the rough, bois- 
terous, noisy, yelling vagabond is rarely seen. 

The American tourist often brings himself into 
unenviable notice by his habit of loud laughing 
and of loud talking, especially at the tables in 
the hotels or in an assembly in a saloon. What 
makes it more humiliating is the fact that some 
of our women are so boisterous at these places, 
and in a mixed company, that they become the 
subjects of very unpleasant, discourteous remarks 
from the foreigners as well as Americans who 
may be present. 

I desire to note here some points of character 
which are made to appear to us often in such a 
light that we feel humiliated because we are 
guilty of them. This will bear investigation 
before we need blame ourselves too much in the 
case, as will herein appear. Americans have 
the reputation abroad of being very inquisitive, 
and there is undoubtedly much that occasions 
the saying. While curiosity can be carried 
too far, and in objectionable and discourteous 
manners, and about matters which are per- 
sonal and hence beyond the field of the travel- 
er's inquiries, yet I am hardly willing to discour- 
age this trait of our countrymen ; it is well, if it 
be kept within proper limits. Quite often I was 
asked by omnibus drivers, train guards, and cit- 
izens if I was not an American. I said, " I am;" 
and then, American-like, asked them what made 
them think so ; the answer always was substan- 
tially this : " The Americans never drop a mat- 
ter until they know all about it." This was said 
pleasantly, and the gentlemen inquired of always 
entered heartily into the spirit of my questions. 
I am fully persuaded that people are pleased to 
give information to strangers who are courteous 



SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 1 27 

and intelligent in their questions, and who appre- 
ciate the attentions shown them. But it should 
be duly remembered that the questions asked 
should not savor of silliness, nor of dense igno- 
rance on the part of those asking them ; it re- 
quires a certain degree of knowledge to frame 
questions properly. Foreigners are frank and 
genial in expressing their willingness to afford 
Americans ample opportunities for becoming ac- 
quainted with their institutions, their customs, 
and their condition ; they will put themselves to 
trouble to serve these ends. 

American vandalism, the marring and destroy- 
ing of objects in order to secure some memento, 
is deserving of severe censure. But when I was 
told by our landlord in London that a certain 
house in that city had to be actually fenced 
about to save it from destruction at the hands of 
the souvenir-seekers, I felt that vandalism is 
not alone of the United States. It is also true in 
Europe that great naming advertisements do not 
disfigure in extent the fences and the rocks as 
with us, yet the foreign passenger upon the 
Metropolitan Railway in London will be fairly 
bewildered at the variety and extent of the adver- 
tisements which meet his eye along the route and 
in the stations. When in London look out for 
" Willing," the advertiser and 'bill-poster, the city 
in some districts being almost tinged yellow with 
his name and his bill-works. 

" That boy/' so prominently before the Ameri- 
can public, is found elsewhere. On some of the 
trams in Glasgow are notices which warn boys, 
under penalty, to keep from jumping upon the 
platforms to the annoyance of passengers. On a 
telegraph pole in Penrith, a North-of-England 



125 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 

town, was fastened the following in prominent 
letters : 

" Caution — Throwing Stones at the Tele- 
graphs. — On the 18th of July, a Youth was charged 
before the Penrith magistrates with Throwing 
Stones at the Telegraphs, and was fined 15s. and 
costs. Notice is Hereby Given that all persons 
Throwing Stones at the Telegraphs will be Prose- 
cuted. By Command of Her Majesty's 

Posm aster-General. 
General Post-Office, 
London, July 1876. 

C. & S. (4,9 l8 ) 3°°, 7-76." 

As showing further that our people are not 
alone in shortcomings and in improprieties, I cite 
two other suggestive notices which were con- 
spicuously placed upon one of the gate-posts at 
the entrance to the cemetery-yard lying upon the 
Avon, and where stands the old church in which 
rest the remains of Shakspeare : 

" Notice. — All persons Loitering about the 
church-yard, gates, Church Doors, or creating 
any disturbance during Divine Service, will be 
proceeded against, as the Law directs." 

u £i Reward. 
The above Reward will be paid to any Person 
giving information that will lead to the convic- 
tion of any Person or Persons taking the Flowers 
from the Graves or Damaging in any way the 
Trees or shrubs growing in this Churchyard." 

This was signed by four church-wardens, and 
dated July, 1877. 

As still bearing upon the question of the de- 
gree of humiliation under which Americans should 



SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 1 29 

or should not travel in Europe, I note this, which 
was in a railway-station restaurant at Stratford- 
on-Avon. The words were arranged around a 
showy portrait of the Bard of Avon, who is rep- 
resented in his aldermanic physique. The ad- 
vertisement explains itself : 

FLOWER and SONS 
Pale 



Portrait 

of 

Shak. 



Ale 



Stratford-on-Avon 

After reading advertisements like this one feels 
that Englishmen as well as Americans hesitate 
at no name that may give emphasis to the excel- 
lence of their wares, and on special occasions we 
are under no extra humiliation because a few of 
our countrymen advertise with questionable taste 
mingled with business vigor. The bar-maid in 
attendance severely deprecated the idea of per- 
verting the portrait of the Bard to such " base 
uses " as that of commending pale ale. 

In traveling in a company a tourist, exhibiting 
eccentricities, will meet some one who will honor 
him with an appellation which is supposed to be 
founded upon some observed and characteristic 
individualities. Here are a few that came under 
my own observation: " The Great American 
Boaster," " The Great American I Am," " The 
American Flirt," "The Fault-Finder," "The 
Walrus." 

I wish to note another crying evil — it is that 
some Americans travel in a foolish fear of what 
the European Mrs. Grundy may say of them ; 
they assume that they must spend money freely, 
else the servants, perchance, will say unkind 



130 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 

things of them. Any one who tries to satiate the 
voracious appetite of European servants and 
under-officials for gratuities will find it not only 
impossible, but will, in the end, find himself the 
veriest butt of ridicule by the very ones he tried 
to conciliate. The whole thing is weak and dis- 
gusting. Americans should, for the national 
honor, never be ashamed to manifest a spirit and 
a practice of a wise, not niggardly, economy 
when in Europe, where the inhabitants are very 
generally obliged to study it in so marked a 
degree. This is simply prudence. This remark 
which an Englishman made to us, of one of his 
own countrymen, bearing upon the point of this 
extravagance of his people, will convey its own 
moral. Said he, " Yes, sir, this is as some Eng- 
lishmen ; they earn their money like an 'orse and 
spend it like a hass." Americans are as justly 
entitled to proper value for money expended as 
are Europeans. If I hire a guide for two marks 
an hour, I should as emphatically demand two 
full hours of his time, as he, two marks from my 
purse. 

While traveling rapidly, on foot and otherwise, 
it is recommended that the tourist eat often, and 
not so much at once. The excitement and the 
labor, tend to produce a feverish state of the 
body which needs to be regulated carefully by 
proper nourishment and sleep. It is safe to say, 
that water, as a drink, should be used very spar- 
ingly — milk, tea, coffee, chocolate, soda-water, 
seltzer-water, are drinks which can be had with 
no difficulty, and at a trifling expense. Physical 
health it necessary in order to enjoy vigorous 
intellectual activity. 

The tourist must disabuse his mind of any 
idea that he will have an easy journey in Europe, 



SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 131 

if he is on a short vacation tour, as he will be 
constantly crowded for time. The train service 
is exciting, crowding, clamorous, and jostling ; 
the days will hurry by, and the routes to walk 
will be many and long. The nervous strain upon 
an American tourist is much greater in European 
railway travel than in the United States, owing 
to the compartment system, to the multitude of 
railways which form a complete net-work over 
portions of the country, to the numerous trains 
which are continually going here and there, and 
to the strangeness of the scenes in general. In 
order to keep as vigorous as possible, it is best to 
ride by some public service, whenever practica- 
ble, to and from the places which the tourist 
desires to visit, that he may thus conserve his 
physical strength. 

It should never be forgotton that politeness 
costs nothing except attention, and that it is a 
powerful element in traveling. It is an easy 
matter to say " thank you," or, "if you please," 
accompanying the words with a bow and a touch 
of the hat. The tourist will be obliged often to 
ask a foreigner to repeat his words, they not hav- 
ing been fully understood ; under these circum- 
stances it is only gracefully uttered, to say with a 
slight bow, "I beg your pardon," or, "If you 
please," holding the voice suspended at the close 
of the expression. Politeness is a very essential 
element at all times, and especially in Europe, 
where the subordination of rank commands it. 
True politeness is not fawning and servile — it is 
manly and assured in its activities, and while it 
kindly acknowledges courtesies, it also commands 
respect for the nobility of its bearing. Politeness 
will gain attentions where even fees, accompanied 
with rudeness, can not enter. There are times 



[32 ' SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 

when the gentleman's hat must be taken off by 
him before officials will give him any notice. 
Facts which came under my own observation, 
urge me to condemn the habit which is emphati- 
cally dogmatic ; a tourist desires a favor, suppose, 
and instead of asking for it commands it, either 
directly or indirectly, as " Let me in here," and 
being stopped, says, " Why can't I be admitted ?" 
This bravo, bluster, and rudeness, only serve to 
irritate an official who is jealous of his honor 
and position. The effect of rudeness upon the 
tourist himself, who is negligent in this regard, is 
unhappy. 

When travelers are among those who use a 
different language, they should always assume 
that those present may possibly understand their 
speech. By recollecting this, awkward embar- 
rassments may often be avoided, especially in 
reference to making comments in the presence 
of those who are supposed to be unable to under- 
stand them. It happens that a tourist enters 
hotels where the tongue is strange, the servants 
speaking not his language as far as he knows. 
Yet these same servants may understand his 
speech readily, they feigning this ignorance that 
they may learn what is said about them. This 
is true in some of the hotels in Paris. In making 
purchases also, the tourist will do well to use his 
familiar speech instead of stumbling along with 
another, until he is assured that the salesman can 
not converse with him in any other manner. 

Among the peculiar and possible experiences 
which are before a tourist is that of traveling in a 
land where he is not familiar with the language, 
and at the same time unaccompanied by any one 
who speaks his own English tongue. The feeling 
is that of loneliness, of great distance from 



SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 133 

friends, of longing for some familiar speech, of 
wonder at the positiveness of his own thought 
that these people who look so intelligent can not 
now and may never speak the English language, 
of involuntary pity for the children because they 
cannot understand him, of disturbed disgust that 
this pleasant and apparently intelligent man 
whom he accosts with a question only looks a 
blank, and stupid, and pitying answer — in all this 
disappointment, amid all this influence, he grows 
silent and thoughtful, which is half pain-and- 
weariness, — he takes his meals silently, pointing 
for the dishes, hands out all of his small change 
for pay, and is thankful if any of it be handed back 
to him. 

Suffer me a thought about the effect upon the 
mind that follows the seeing of ruins, as of castles, 
cathedrals, abbeys, and fortifications. We read 
of these and we study pictures of them in the Art 
Journals, — we associate with them former wealth, 
grandeur and heroism, — we expect to see great 
things in them. But it may be said plainly and 
shortly that one is very often disappointed at the 
sight of them, — they are, in so many cases, mere 
heaps of stone, wastes for sheep-runs, and 
semi-enclosures for vines, — only a few still 
reveal somewhat of their former size and 
magnificence. But their actual importance is 
not in them as they now appear, it is in 
their former history. In this connection one 
word more may be permitted ; it is the spectacle 
of a traveler so desirous of culture by means of 
foreign travel that he ignores the thousand-and- 
one things of daily observation as unworthy of 
attention, and hastens off to spend all his time in 
galleries of painting and of sculpture, looking at 
works with an undiscriminating eye, but in the 



134 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 

firm conviction that by some occult means culture 
will ooze out of these objects and into his own 
being. One says to this that such galleries can 
not be seen in our own land ; it is granted ; 
neither can one here see such a civilization as is 
found in Europe, nor such landscapes, nor such 
cities, nor such customs, nor such methods of do- 
ing business, nor such appearing peoples. I 
would not discourage studies in Art, but unless 
one has large command of time and is a specialist, 
it is questionable whether it is not more surely 
conducive to sound culture to extend one's ob- 
servations and studies over wider ranges of mate- 
rials, for as Tylor says : " Culture or Civilization, 
taken in its wide ethnographic sense, is that com- 
plex whole which includes knowledge, belief, art, 
morals, law, custom, and any other capabilities 
and habits acquired by man as a member of 
society." 

Speaking of galleries reminds me to make a 
suggestion about observing the pictures. One 
should have a small opera-glass by means of 
which to throw the flat surface into proper per- 
spective, without which pictures are not actually 
seen as they are. In the absence of a glass, one 
can take a piece of paper and roll it into a cylin- 
drical form, having its diameter at one end longer 
than at the other; close one eye, and with the other 
look at the picture through this tube, holding it 
close about the eye in order to prevent the light 
from interfering with the sight. But one can 
discipline his eye unaided to view a flat copy in 
perspective, by careful practice : close one eye, 
then study the copy with the other, trying to 
bring out the perspective effects ; in time the eye 
will need neither the glass nor the roll of paper 
in order to enjoy the full effects of the picture. 



SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 135 

The old saying : " When one is in Rome he 
must do as Romans do," is valuable, provided it 
is properly understood. To do as the Romans 
do is not to think in the Roman vocabulary, is 
not to have Roman habits of thought, is not to 
avow the Roman standards of morality, is not to 
fellowship Roman degradation. For an Ameri- 
can to do as the Romans do, is for himself, still 
an American, to adapt himself readily and 
easily to the Roman modes of ordinary living 
and of business, to fall easily into the Roman 
grooves of management under their administra- 
tions of civil laws and established customs. In 
thought the American must make Rome America, 
not himself a Roman. He may convert America 
into Rome and so become a Roman, if that 
mean anything, but he is still an American. 
These attempts to become foreigners too often 
result in nothing except in adopting the vices 
that exist in those lands, because they are often 
more conspicuously observed than are the virtues. 
This maxim has to answer for many a fall into 
vice from weak tourists who tempt very tempta- 
tion itself under the shadow of " doing as the 
Romans do ; " habits of intemperance are 
acquired too frequently by Americans in foreign 
lands under the excuse that " everybody drinks " 
in the old country. The maxim is used to 
convert liberty into license. 

I would not forget to fortify the traveler with 
moral courage against his return home. His 
pride will tempt him to report a wider travel and 
a closer observation than he has actually had. 
To illustrate : In Venice are some winged lions 
standing here and there upon the facades of the 
principal buildings, and at other points also, as 
imposing ornaments ; or as it often is put : " St. 



I36 SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 

Mark and the lions " — St. Mark being the patron 
saint of the city, and the lions being emblem- 
atical of the saint. A lady had traveled, and was 
again at home ; some one said to her : " And so 
you went to Venice ? Saw all the sights ; St. 
Mark and the lions ?" " Oh, yes, the dear old 
lions ! We were most fortunate the day we were 
there ; arrived just in time to see the noble 
creatures fed !" Another trial is this : One 
meets a friend at home who has never traveled, 
who asks him : " Did you see the Cathedral at 

. " No, sir, I could not go there." " I 

would rather see that Cathedral than all you saw 
while you were traveling." This is candid, to 
say the least. 

Another phase of this ill-breeding is that some 
one has, upon a time, read a scientific or techni- 
cal statement made about an extraordinary phe- 
nomenon that existed, or may still exist, in 
Europe. He asks : " Did you see thus and thus ?" 
" No, I did not meet it." " Mr. Profundus speaks 
of it, at any rate, and I know that it is as he 
says," turning away with an air of dam- 
aged hopes and of contempt at the want of obser- 
vation which the returned man manifests. But 
still the traveler has his remedy in this case ; he 
can turn himself into the learner and listen to 
the extended and critical information of his un- 
traveled friend Gamaliel ! People so often for- 
get that Europe is a large country, and that it is 
literally packed full of matters of profound inter- 
est to an American, and that two travelers, even 
though both may be never so intelligent and ob- 
serving, will seldom meet precisely the same items 
and phases of matters by the wayside. 

Tourists may safely assume that good sense 
will always be a valuable article to possess in 



SPIRIT OF THE TOURIST. 1 37 

large quantities. There is a sort of glamour 
hanging over a foreign country before the eyes 
of him who has never visited it. This mystic 
veil distorts the true state of the country which 
is seen as in a kind of mirage. The truth gradu- 
ally dawns, upon a personal inspection, and good 
sense is needed by the tourist to keep him well 
balanced in his feelings and in his judgments. 



TOURS, EXCURSIONS, 

— AND — 

General Traveling Arrangements. 

CHIEF OFFICES: 

COOK, SON & JENKINS, 

261 Broadway, New York. 

THOMAS COOK & SON, 

Ludgate Circus, London. 

Pioneers and Inaugurators of the Principal System of 

TOURS ax&<£ EXCURSIONS 

Now in operation throughout the world. 



In 1872 Messrs. Cook, Son & Jenkins extended their Tourist system to 
America, and are now enabled, by reason of the facilities given them by a 

Majority of the Leading Railway Companies 

of the country, to issue Tourist and Excursion Tickets to all parts of the 
American Continent at 

IRJEIDTTCIEIID RATES. 

These Tourist Tickets are issued only to pleasure seekers ; they are 
bound in small books, each leaf being a coupon for a section of the journey, 
and are precisely similar to the tickets used by the same firm in Europe for 
many years past. 

Among the advantages in the use of Cook's Tourist Tickets, besides 
the reduced rates at which they are sold, is the fact that they can be made 
into combinations which ordinary tickets cannot. They are good to stop off 
en route, are good till used, and all unused or unmutilated coupons are re- 
deemed at the chief office at 10 per cent, below their value. 

Tickets and information can be obtained at the following offices : 

New York, 261 Broadway. 

Boston, 197 Washington Street. 

Philadelphia, 1351 Chestnut Street, corner Broad. 

Washington, 820 F Street, opposite Patent Office. 

Chicago, 77 South Clark Street. 

Toronto, 67 Yonge Street. 

Pittsburgh, 135 Fifth Avenue. 



COOK'S TOXTRS 

TO 

White Mountains. 



COOK, SON & JENKINS issue Tourist Tickets in any possible 
combination, to all the points of interest in the White and Franconia 
Mountains by every popular route, and to include as short or as ex- 
tended a tiip as any one may desire. 

Mount Washington, Glen House, Crawford 

House, Profile House and Twin 

Mountain House. 

Tic ets to ascend Mount Washington by rail or coach, or up one way 
and down another. 

Excursion Tickets to White Mountains 

Via Boston, via Portland, via Lake Winnipiseogee, via Saratoga and 
Lake George, via New London and Worcester, out one way, return by 
an opposite route. 

SPECIMEN TOUR No. 1. 

New York to Newport. Fall River, Boston, Old Orchard Beach, Port* 
land, North Conway, Crawford House, Fabyan House, Twin Mountain 
House, Bethlehem, Littleton, Plymouth, Weirs (Lake Winnipiseogee), 
Concord, Nashua, Worcester, New London, New York, or the reverse. 

First Class - $19.^0 

From Philadelphia and back - 23.25 

From Washing on and back - 29.50 

SPECIMEN TOUR No. 2. 

New York, Hudson River steamer to Albany, rail to Saratoga, Lake 
George, Lake Champlain, Burlington, Montpelier, Wells River, Little- 
ton, Rethlehem, Twin Mountain House, Fabyan House, Crawford 
House, North Conway, Portland, Old Orchard Beach, Bcston, New- 
port, New York, or vice versa. 

From New York or Boston and back - $23.50 

From Philadelphia and back - 27. 50 

From Washington and back - 34.50 

Passengers to White Mountains can make their own Route. 

WE CAN SUPPLY THE TICKETS AT 

New York, 261 Broadway. 

Boston, 197 Washington Street, 

Philadelphia, 1351 Chestnut Street, corner Broad. 

Washington, 820 F Street, opposite Patent Office. 

Chicago, 77 South Clark Street. 

Toronto, 67 Yonge Street. 

Pittsburgh, 135 Fifth Avenue. 



COOK'S TOURIST TICKETS 

)TO( 

CALIFORNIA 

Via New York Central R.R , Hudson River, Niagara Falls, Cleve- 
land, Chicago and Omaha. 

Via Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington City, Cincinnati, St. Louis 
and Omaha. 

Good to &o M One Way and Mum by an Opposite Way. 

ARRANGED ALSO TO INCLUDE 

Salt Lake City, Yosemite Valley, 

GEYSERS, ETC. 

COOK, SON & JENKINS issue a Round Trip Ticket, and prepare 
Itineraries of travel for the use of the Traveler. 

COOK, SON & JENKINS issue Tickets from New York, Boston, 
Philadelphia, Washington, Chicago, or any other principal point, to 

C^LIFORJ^I/1, 

YOSEMITE VALLEY, &c, 

VIA 

Colorado, Denver, lion, k 

Good to visit the wonderful Colorado Country, either going or 
returning. 

Their offices are the only offices in the United States able to make 
these combinations. 

Apply at 

261 Broadway, New York. 

197 Washington Street, Boston. 

1351 Chestnut Street, corner Broad, Philadelphia. 

820 F Street, Washington. 

77 South Clark Street, Chicago. 

67 Yonge Street, Toronto. 

135 Fifth Avenue* Pittsburgh. 



Cook's Tourist Tickets 

—TO— 

COLORADO. 

Messrs. COOK, SON & JENKINS, by reason of superior 
facilities offered by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway 
Company — the new line through the Arkansas Valley — and by 
the Kansas Pacific Railway Company, are enabled to issue 

Exciarsion Tickets 

FROM 

New York, Boston and Philadelphia 

TO 

Denver, Pueblo, Manitou, Colorado Spring's, The Garden 

of the Gods, Monument Park, Pike's Peak, La Veta 

Pass, The Great Canon of the Arkansas, 

♦ and the attractions of the 

ROOKY MOUNTAINS 

AT VERY LOW RATES, 

Issuing the ticket 6ut and back by opposite routes. The follow- 
ing route is given as a specimen Tour : 

To Colorado, Denver and Return, via Hudson River, 

rail or boat to Albany, rail to Niagara Falls, Chicago, Mexico, 
Kansas City, Colorado Springs, Denver, and back to Kansas 
City, St. Louis, Cincinnati, Washington City, Baltimore, 
Philadelphia and New York. 
From New York or Philadelphia and back, - - $ 98.00 
From Boston, out by Albany, back by Fall River, - 103.00 

Upwards of thirty different combinations can be obtained at 
any of the offices below. 

New York, 261 Broadway, corner Warren Street. 

Boston, 197 Washington Street, corner Court. 

Washington, 820 F Street, opp. Patent Office. 

Chicago, 77 South Clark Street. 

Philadelphia, 1351 Chestnut Street, corner Broad. 

Toronto, 67 Yonge Street. 

Pittsburgh, 135 Fifth Avenue. 

Sleeping Car Berths on New York Central R. R. can be ob- 
tained at New York and Boston Offices. 



OOOIKL'S 

TOURS 



Messrs. COOK, SON & JENKINS are now prepared to issue a 
direct traveling ticket for a journey Round the World, good to com- 
mence and end in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, or San 
Francisco, the tickets good to go EAST or WEST. Tickets issued via 
Japan and China, or via Australia. 

In their printed programmes several examples of such Tours are 
given, one of which we reproduce here. 

NEW YORK TO NIAGARA, CHICAGO, OMAHA AND SAN FRAN- 
CISCO, by Railroad. 
SAN FRANCISCO TO YOKOHAMA, by Pacific Mail Steamer. 
YOKOHAMA TO SHANGHAI, through Inland Sea of Japan, by Steamer. 
SHANGHAI TO HONG KONG, by P. & O. Steamer. 
HONG KONG TO SINGAPORE, PENANG AND CEYLON, by P. & O. 

Steamers. 
POINT l>E GALLE (CEYLON) TO MADRAS AND CALCUTTA, by P. 

& O. Steamers. 
CALCUTTA TO BENARES, ALLAHAI5AD, JUBBULPORE AND BOM- 

BAV, by Railway- 
BOMBAY TO ADEN AND SUEZ, by P. & 0. Steamers. 
SUEZ TO ALEXANDRIA. Direct, or by Cairo, by Railway. 
ALEXANDRIA To BRINDIsl, bv P. & O. Sieamer. 
BR1NDISI TO PARIS, by Railway, via Naples, Rome, Florence and 

Turin. 
PARIS TO LONDON, bv any Railway, and any Channel Route. 
LONDON TO LIVERPOOL (OR GLASGOW) bv Railwav. 
LIVERPOOL (OR GLASGOW) TO NEW YORK, by any Line of 
Steamers, or vice versa. 

PRICE, $1 I 19.50, COLD. 



PERSONALLY-CONDUCTED TOURS. 

Everv year for five years past, Messrs. Cook, Son & Jenkins have dis- 
patched one of their most efficient conductors on a journey round the 
world, in charge of a select partv of ladies and gentlemen. The time 
consumed in this trip is about six months, the cost, $1,625, gold, which 
includes first-class travel, hotels, sleeping cars, and necessary expenses 
for the tour. The next party will leave New York about September 10th. 
Full particulars can be obtained at 

NEW YORK, 261 Broadway, BOSTON, 197 Washington St. 

CHICAGO, 77 South Clark Street, WASHINGTON, 820 V street, 

TORONTO, 67 Yonge Street, PITTSBURGH, 135 Fifth Ave. 

PHILADELPHIA. 1351 Chestnut St., cor. Broad. 



COOK'S 

EXCURSIONIST 



A Monthly Periodical, twice the size of Harp- 
er's Weekly, is publishedby Cooh, Son §- Jenkins 
at B61 Broadway, New York, and sent by mail 
to any address post-paid, for one dollar per 
annum, or ten cents per copy. 

IT CONTAINS 

Specimen Tours and Routes of Travel in the United States and 
Canadas, to the number of nearly 2,000. 

Routes and Fares for nearly One Thousand Tours in Europe, 
Palestine and Egypt. 

Rates of Fare by all Steamship Lines leaving all American 
Ports, from New York, or other American Ports, TO PARIS 
AND BACK. 

The names of all the Steamers of every Line leaving for Liv- 
erpool, Glasgow, London, Havre, Hull, Bremen, Southampton, 
and Hamburg. 

Particulars of Tours to Cuba, Mexico, The West Indies, Bra- 
zil, South America, China, Japan, Australia, etc., etc. 

List of Fares from New York to nearly every important city in 
the world, worked out by all lines of Steamers, both first and 
second class. 

Routes and Itineraries for Special Personally-Conducted 
Tours to Switzerland, Italy and Round the World, now formed 
and to be formed. 

Programmes for Palestine Travel, for Tours on the Nile, for 
Tours to Scandinavia and the land of the Midnight Sun. It is a 
journal of travel which contains more information than any simi- 
lar publication. 

Send for a copy to 

261 Broadway, New York, 

197 Washington Street, Boston, 

1351 Chestnut St., cor. Broad, Philadelphia, 

820 F Street, Washington, 

77 South Clark Street, Chicago, 

67 Yonqe Street, Toronto, 

135 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh. 



Cook's Tourist Tickets 

FOR EUROPEAN TRAVEL 

Are the only tickets which enable one or more passengers to 
travel any day, and by any steamer, train or diligence, to all 
parts of 

Ireland, Germany, Spain, The Levant, 

Scotland, Bavaria, Italy, Palestine, 

England, Austria, Turkey, India, 

Wales, Holland, Egypt, China, 

France, Belgium, Greece, &c, &c. 

Sold, in all cases, at reductions from ordinary rates, and avail- 
able by any line of steamers from any American port. 

Cook's Hotel Coupons, 

Available at nearly three hundred first-class hotels in various 
parts of the world, can be had by travelers purchasing Cook's 
Tourist Tickets, guaranteeing them first-class accommodations at 
fixed and regular prices. 

Cook, Son & Jenkins' General Traveling Arrangements 

Are so widely extended that they can supply tickets to almost 
any point that Tourists may wish to visit, in all cases at reduc- 
tion?, many ranging from twenty-five to forty per cent, below 
ordinary fares. The regular traveling ticket being issued, in all 
cases, printed in English on one side, and in the language of the 
country where it is used on the other, while it contains all the 
information the traveler needs. 

Those contemplating a Tour need only call on or address 
Messrs. Cook, Son & Jenkins, at any of their offices, giving the 
journey they propose, when the price of the tickets will be at 
once quoted. 

COOK'S EXCURSIONIST 

Is published monthly in New York, London and Brussels, at ten cents 
per copy, or one dollar for the year, and contains programmes and lists 
to the number of nearly one thousand specimen Tours, tickets for which 
are issued by Cook, Son & Jenkins, with fares by every line of Steamers 
leaving New York. The EXCURSIONIST can be had by mail, post 
paid, upon application. 

For further particulars or information, apply to any of the following 
offices : 

New York, 261 Broadway, New Orleans, 35 Carondelet St., 

Boston, 197 Washington St., Chicago, 77 South Clark St., 

Washington, 820 F St., Pittsburgh, 135 Fifth Ave., 

San Francisco, 3 New Montgomery St., Toronto, 67 Yonge St., 
Philadelphia, 1351 Chestnut St., cor. Broad. 



€©@k ? s Hotel Coupons 

REDUCED TO $3.00 PER DAY, 

For the BEST Accommodations at BEST Hotels, 

When Cook, Son & Jenkins introduced their Tourist System 
to America, they also brought into use their Hotel Coupons, 
which provide for a full day's accommodation in at least- one first- 
class hotel in each city of the world. 

The American Hotel Coupon is sold at Three Dollars 
per day, and is accepted by the best hotels in America. It 
provides for Bed Room, Breakfast, Dinner and Supper, or an 
entire day's boarding which can be commenced at any time. 
LIST OF HOTELS. 



Alexandria Bay— Thousand Island House 
Atlanta— Kimball House 
Augusta— Planters' Hotel 
Baltimore— Eutaw House 
Boston— St. James 
Rnmhnv * Adelphi Hotel 
Bombay- j Watgon . s Esplanade 
Burlington, Vt.— Van Ness House 
Buffalo-Invalids' and Tourists' Hotel 
Cacouua, Que.— St. Lawrence Hall 
Calcutta- Great Eastern Hotel 
Canon City, Col.— McClure House 
Chicago— Sherman House 



Niagara City— Quei 

alls —International 



een's Hotel 
Niagara Falls —International Hotel, 

(American side) 
Norfolk— Atlantic Hotel 
Omaha— Grand Central 
Ottawa— Russell House 
Philadelphia— Colonnade Hotel 
Pittsburg- 
Plymouth, N. H. 

Point de Galle- Oriental Hotel 
Portland 

Richmond, Va.- j £Xng^Ballard 

Snlf- T HlrP ri(-v < Walker House 
Salt Lake City - , Townsend Hou8e 

San Franeisco— Grand Hotel 
Shanghai- Astor House 

Springfield 

* St. John, N. B. 

Cf T „ . \ Laclede 
St Louis - /Bircher 

Toronto— Queen's Hotel 

Watkins' Glen- Glen Mountain House 

Washington City-Willard's Hotel 

TT7 1..1. Tin » • ( Twin Mt'n House 

White Mountains- \ Crawford House 

Yokohama— Grand Hotel 



i Leidig's Hotel 

- Murphy * Coulter's 

I Snow's Hotel 



Cincinnati- Gibson House 

Denver— Grand Central 

Detroit— Russell House 

Estes Park, Col.— Estes Park Hotel. 

Fortress Monroe— Hygeia Hotel 

Green Cove Springs -Clarendon Hotel 

Gorham— Alpine House 

Havana, Cuba— San Carlos Hotel 

Hioga— Hioga Hotel 

Hong Kong— Hong Kong Hotel 

Jacksonville— Grand National 

Kansas City— Coates House 

Mnnitnn r „i _ j Manitou House 
Manitou, Col.- j CHft Houge 

Merced— El Capitan 
Montreal— Ottawa House 
*Mountain Lake House— Giles Co. Va 

Nagasaki— Occidental Hotel j Yosemite Valley- 
Newport, Vt 

New York— Grand Central Hotel 

* An allowance of 50 cents per day will be made to holders of Coupons here. 

These Coupons are only sold to travelers holding Cook's 
Tourist Tickets. Holders of Coupons are not required 
to give notice that they hold the Coupons, are not known from 
other guests, and use the Coupons same as money. All unused 
Coupons are redeemed at ten per cent, discount. 

Sold at all of Cook's Tourist Offices. 
New York, i£61 Broadway. 

Boston, 197 Washington Street. 

Philadelphia, 1351 Chestnut St., cor. Broad. 
Washington, 820 F Street. 

Chicago, 77 South Clark Street. 
Toronto, 67 Yonee Street. 

Pittsburgh, 135 Fifth Avenue. 



